How do Klipschorns compare with modern designs?

In a very large room, with of course a good front end, and Cornwall center channel, there are very few loudspeakers that can deliver music with the visceral(aren't we gettin high fallutin?)impact that this set up can. In other words, damn inpressive, especially on big bodied classical or big band music. It is just incredible, but I think you have to be 20 feet away from the system at the least. Klipsch did not design these for the poor among us with measly 16 by 24 listening areas. Normal rooms, I have a few problems, most are mentioned above, but in a small room the speaker can't do what it was designed to do, but it wasn't designed for a small room, so "hey" that works for me.

I too am a horn fan & love my vintage 1978 Klipsch's despite the drawbacks (horn coloration - true - but they're real picky about signal quality being fed into them). Transparency isn't the greatest but is still pretty decent, although they are *very* revealing of micro-details & will absolutely show you every little change that you make in your rig. Regarding dynamics they really shine here - rivals that of live performances. If you like to tweak there are numerous things that can be done to enhance these magnificent beasts (yes they are large & heavy). You can even use them without room corners if you fabricate some "artificial corner" panels such as Paul K. himself does. Or get the Belles, which look somewhat better than the K-horns, or the budget model LaScala is another alternative.

Wonderful and insightful responses from all. Thank you for your great analyses.

Jm I realized that I neglected to answer your stage & image question. Results in that regard are mixed & somewhat confuse me. Depending upon the source equipment & even moreso the associated cabling, I've sometimes had poor staging & at other times it has been unbelievably huge, like I moved the speakers right out of the house & into the front yard or somesuch.
However I do not have the corner horns, but the Belles (which use the same crossover & drivers & even a folded horn bass cabinet) but are made to work without the corner. So of course mine are not positioned at the room corners, they're practically nearfield at about 7' distance from the listening position & dividing the long wall into thirds. This works out well for me because our living room arrangement doesn't allow for speakers being pulled well out into the room. Spacing from the backwall is at an angle & only about a foot or so away, not a good situation but I can get away with it because the Klipsch are designed to work close to backwalls. I realize that this layout hurts staging but it can still work very well with proper setup.

Most of the "horn colouration" that you folks hear is due to the horn body itself "ringing". Believe me, they ring like MAD. If you completely damp the throat of the horn ( the ENTIRE "body" or "casting"), the sound will DRASTICALLY change. Minimize the diffraction taking place at the mouth of the horn by chamfering the cabinet to an equal flare ratio or flush mount the horns and the imaging and soundstage will also improve quite noticeably.

As to the bass horn itself, stiffen the cabinet with small internal braces ( large diameter dowel rods unevenly spaced ) and "round" the internal corners. Just like a mid or tweeter horn body, the bass horn should have smooth flares with a gradual radiused flare for best results. Squared corners produce "flat spots" in air turbulence and create internal nodes within the horn that do not help us at all. This mimizes the "boxy" or "hollow" characteristics in vocals that you hear. Most of this is due to the drastic reduction of the box "talking" and the reduction of standing waves and reflections WITHIN the horn body itself.

If you REALLY want to get serious, play with the size of the opening that the woofer feeds into. It is MUCH smaller than the driver itself, creating what is known as a "compression" effect. While this does increase the velocity of sound waves and play with SPL levels generated, it too can contribute to the "boxy" vocal effect. I don't recommend this for the mass majority of "diy'ers" or "tweakers" though.

Improving the wiring in ALL Klipsch speakers can make a HUGE difference in sound quality. My experience is that solid wire works best here, but everyone has their preferences.

As i mentioned in another thread recently, check the polarity of the drivers. Some earlier Klipsch designs fed the "squawker" ( mid horn ) out of phase when compared to the polarity of the woofer and tweeter. Try it both ways and see what sounds best to you. I and several others have always preferred the "in phase" approach as it sounds much more natural. Sean
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