The "break in" period of my Jolida was hard to quantify since it was so subtle and sounded great right out of the box. I noticed more from tube rolling, my most recent being the amazing Psvane 12AX7T-II input tubes...highly recommended. I look at the LEDs when I adjust the bias and it seems that if you turn the bias up to the point where an LED is steady and then back it off until it's almost out, this corresponds to 500mv...in my amp anyway. After that, the house current fluctuations are evident and I ignore that, although the LED blinking indicates a sign of life.
Bias for Jolida 502 P Amplifier
Just got my new Jolida 502 P yesterday and I'm enjoying it a lot - great sound! (Thanks Wolf and Jedinite for your posts re the Jolida amps) I'm surprised at the amount of bass and slam I'm getting with my Magneplanar 1.7's In fact I'm thinking that for a lot of music I probably won't even turn on my HSU sub.
On setting the bias - how important are small variations? When I got the amp I checked with my multimeter and the amp was set at about 560 mv for all tubes. Moved the bias back to 500 mv per the manual but I'm not sure if it really matters all that much for these small changes? How critical is this?
On setting the bias - how important are small variations? When I got the amp I checked with my multimeter and the amp was set at about 560 mv for all tubes. Moved the bias back to 500 mv per the manual but I'm not sure if it really matters all that much for these small changes? How critical is this?
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- 20 posts total
- 20 posts total