No binding post a good idea?


Hi.
I want to ask your opinion about my "No binding post" idea. I think the binding post degrades the quality of signal and sound very much because the post is made of one of larger metal in the signal chain. If a speaker cable from an amp is directly connected to speaker's internal wire, the signal will be purer. I have a design (pat. pend.) for a binding post without the metal connection bar. Do you think the sound will be better? What should I consider a relation to the sound with NBP?

My initial test was very positive. I'd like know your opinion before I invest money on this project. I appreciate your help in advance!
mihorn
I am the first person that I know of that thought of, promoted and sold products using the "binding post bypass system". You simply run the wires to the outside of the amp or speaker and wrap the bare or tinned wire around the outside of the binding post and use the binding post as a clamp. You can see a pic on my website from a link on my "discontinued amps" page. We showed this at the Stereophile show in the late 90s on the Christian Limited speakers. I thought of a binding post design that would be similar to the Music Post except you would run the wire through the middle of the post (the post being hollow all the way through) and then solder it into slots on the clamping surface. Never did get around to making them. Maybe that is what you are doing. All my amps I have ever sold use this binding post bypass system.

However, even better is to use no metal what so ever. I sell these products called Ground Enhancers that are loops of litz wire. When you put them on the ground connection on a speaker it gives more detail (sometime startlingly so). I have soldered all my speaker connections for 20 years but I needed a way to evaluate quickly different types of Ground Enhancers. So, I clamped a Music Post onto my already soldered together wires coming out of my speakers so I could also clamp the Ground Enhancer there. I decided to listen to see if this clamped on Music Post did anything to the sound....and guess what....it degraded the sound noticeably....even though it was "not really in the signal path". Anotherwords, a carefully tuned litz wire on the ground enhances the sound whereas a large hunk of copper degrades the sound. So, on my new speaker kits (BG Neo planar drivers and Servo woofer systems) I will be promoting either inexpensive nylon clamps (one quarter inch round nylon bolts and nuts and washers are dirt cheap) or even more fun will be hardwood clamps that I will have custom made. Nothing sexier than turning a cool hardwood knob.

Binding posts, spades and bananas should be outlawed. They ruin the sound.
Interesting thread and very applicable for me in an upcoming situation that I'm facing since I'll be mounting up some speakers in a cabinet soon and was just looking at wbt binding posts today.

My qiluestion is, if you don't use a binding post then what would you use? Just have wire soldered to the crossover and hanging 8 feet outside the cabinet?
World of audio is full of markets...binding posts, interconnects,connectors,anti-binding posts, anti-interconnects,etc...everbody jockeying for their piece if the sonic meat pie
My Quicksilver silver mono's use strips to screw the wire/spades to. The Vandy's use the same type of connector. They do work better and are very easy to use. I love the Cardas Clamping system on my Ayre. It's just one screw for both wires and it gives a solid connection. Hard wired would be the way to go if you could pull it off. Vandy 7's with his new amp would have been a way to have the manufacturer do it. Bryston also has their own speakers as does Mac and a few more. If you have a way to cold clamp the wires, it would be better than solder. The only problem is that most folks have or can only get their favorite cables with connectors already attached. If you had speaker wire that matched your internal wire and did it that way, it would work. The problem is that it looses it's efficiency if the amp end doesn't use the same connector I would think.
Actually my method is best,even the best solder is only 4% silver 1% copper ,the rest tin and lead. I use a High purity WBT 
gold over Copper connectors , with crimp slide on terminals 
and use the a Furutech yellow High purity Copper 24 k gold plated 
this is the purest quality connection, I want to mention the vast majority of electronics,as well as loudspeakers come with cheap gold plated brass, which is 3-4 lessin conductivity as well as Thst much more in added resistance. Thst is why I replaced connections to all copper throughout my system, as well as 
high quality fuses ,which the steel fuses are a a Huge bottleneck of resistance ,just check out  the metals resistance index online.
if you truly want to do it right .