Amp is plugged to the wall, why use a conditioner?

Just to embellish Dopogue's initial suggestion. Getting estimates for electrical work is usually free and in the end the cost is usually less than most assume.

Keep in mind that Volts Alternating Current can have many differing issues from house to house. Unfortunately the solution to these issues can only be dealt with after your utilities meter unless you ask for an increase in service amperage which may require an upgrade of cable from the dwelling to the supply. If you have aluminum cable connected after the meter or after the dwellings main breaker it should be replaced with copper.

Tell your electrician that you'd like to have this new circuit on a different pole than lighting, refrigeration, and washer dryers or in a separate breaker box. You want a dedicated 20 amp circuit with an uninterrupted run of 10 gauge wire, preferably BX metal clad conduit to two metal receptacle boxes for a total of four Isolated Ground receptacles (8 plugs). This circuit will star ground your system.

Local code may not allow or may require the use of metal VAC components.

Again, every VAC grid is different and results of an upgrade will differ. After I had similar work done I found no substantial improvement using VAC filters or regenerators. Results will still vary.

Gdush,

I have a Richard Gray 400 and I recommend it. I noticed no difference with my amp plugged into the wall directly or into the RG400. I actually have all my 2 way components connected to the RG400, and all my HT components plugged into a Monster power strip. I then plugged in the Monster strip into the RG400. Still noticed no difference. Supposedly if I plug the Monster strip into the socket next to the RG400, it will gain the same benefits as being plugged into the RG400. I haven't tried this though.

I don't consider my system the most resolving, but enough to tell the difference when swapping out components.

I would also look into Running Springs Audio. Helped my system out quite a bit.

Gdush:

I have one Furman AR-15 for two JC1 mono power amps and a HSU subwoofer; and a second one for the preamp, CD deck, and D/A. The power cords for each AR-15 are connected to the same power outlet. Cannot comment on the products you mention because the AR-15 works differently than all of them (to my knowledge).

In the Furman, the networks (including capacitor storage) are across the ac line, so they do not limit current. Current is limited only by the power cords (and breakers in the extreme).

Thank you all for the great advice.