Opinions on Reference LP Digitization System ...


I'm considering my options for digitizing my LP collection, and, after doing a bit of research, came up with the following list of components (with current retail prices, noted). Computer itself not included in list. This is all hypothetical.

I'd be aiming for 'reference' but not 'money doesn't matter at all'.

Maybe, rather than choosing/commenting on what *you* would personally choose, think of the following: imagine 100 audiophiles are in a room, including you - what set-up would have the highest average score?

In terms of cartridge, do you think pure neutrality would win out on average (and if so, what cartridge would you suggest) or slightly sweeter/warmer (and again, if so, what cartridge)? Other cartridge thoughts?

Feel free to pick apart the list, but if you substitute something more expensive, that means having to sacrifice elsewhere (the hypothetical list below totals approx. $42,000, so think of approx. $45,000 as your budget, buying new (not from Audiogon)).

Many thanks in advance for any comments received.

VPI HR-X TT + JMW 12.7 tonearm + Valhalla wiring ($15,000)
Air Tight PC-1 Supreme cartridge ($9,000)
Kimber Kable PK14 Palladian power cord for TT ($1,300)
Ginko Cloud 11 (medium) isolation platform for TT ($600)
Ginko dustcover for TT ($400)
Channel D Seta L (rechargeable battery) phonopreamp ($4,100)
Kimber Kable Orchid (preamp-aesb digital connect) ($700)
Lynx AES16 soundcard ($700)
Shunyata Cyclops power conditioner ($2,000)
Grand Prix Audio Monaco 3 shelf stand ($2,900)
VPI Typhoon record cleaner ($2,700)
Furutech DeMag LP demagnetizer ($2,700)
Aesthetix ABCD-1 cartridge demagnetizer ($200)
herschelr
I am in the process of digitizing my albums. You cannot tell the difference between the vinyl and digital copies. Steps include
1. VPI TNT 3.5/rega 600/ Lyra Helikon to Conrad Johnson Premier 15 Series 2 to Korg 2000s
2. Korg to Mac and stored in 96k/24 bit format
3. Play back system: Mac mini to Berkeley alpha usb to Berkeley alpha dac to Conrad johnson et5 to Cary 805C to Wilson Watt Puppy 7.
I would just buy a Barrington portable turntable and carry it and my LP collection in a backpack...

http://s1039.photobucket.com/albums/a474/johmbolaya/assorted/?action=view¤t=BarringtonPortable_01.jpg
I have been digitizing lps for over 14 years, initially using a Pioneer PDR-609 CD recorder and a B&O TX-2 with MMC2 cartridge in an ADCOM component system. Then I used a Masterlink ML-9600 recorder, another fine machine.

My system has improved to get much better dubs. Now I use a Tascam DV-RA1000HD recorder, Whest PS.30R phono preamp, Rega RP3 with an Ortofon Black 2M cartridge. All of this is powered by Conrad Johnson separates, while I do not need those to record to the Tascam's HD.

Further, I had the Tascam modified by Jim Williams of Audio Upgrades to the A/D-D/A, and other bits. Also, on my Rega, I upgraded to the reference subplatter by Groovetracer, and Frank Smillie's Delrin platter and 110gm counter-weight. In addition, because of the VTA, I installed Rega's height adjustment part under the base of the tonearm.

My routine is to clean every record on a VPI-17, play once or twice, then record to the Tascam, pull those files into my MacBook Pro, process the tracks (I record a side at a time) with ClickRepair, then use Audacity do fade in and outs and to parse and name tracks that I save back to my Mac as WAV files. Typically I record at 24 bits and either 44.1kH or 88.2kH and dither down in Audacity.

I use Taiyo Yuden Watershield CDs exclusively now. But MAM CD are great also. I like the TY CDs since I print artwork on them with an Epsom Photo Stylus printer (designed to print on CDs) that looks quite professional.

There is a lot of controversy in my view about recording settings. I point you to this very thoughtful discussion: http://people.xiph.org/~xiphmont/demo/neil-young.html. But I have read just about everything on the internet about what is right and I have done my own listening tests.

Since most of my dubs are for playing in my camper or car, I do not fret too much about it, given the outside noise and medium quality car stereo(s). The other issue is Red Book CD players. You have to end up at 16 bit and 44.1kHz no matter what.

If you are archiving to a storage device for playback, I recommend that you record one or two lps at all the settings available, then after you have done the processing you want, listen to decide what you like best. That will be the acid test.

Good luck.
I am in the process of digitizing most of my 15K LP's and 1K prerecorded tapes, all at 192/24. They are almost all classical - worth in excess of $200K. I am using a VPI HR-X TT with Rim Drive and a Lyra Skala or Helikon mono as appropriate. I am using an ultrasonic Audio Desk Vinyl Cleaner. The phono pre is a custom Bottlehead with variable EQ (for my many non RIAA records including early Decca and EMI). The digital system is Win XP Pro with Pyramix Software and Mykerinos card in a Zalman fanless case feeding a Pacific Microsonics Model Two. Post processing for clicks and pops is Izotope RX2 software. Everything is stored on Raid 6 configured hard drives, with an extra complete back up. I also had installed a dedicated power supply by Art Kelm. The system is very quiet. I was fortunate to have some top notch consultants to help me in the selection process and listening tests as well as teaching me how to use the software and equipment. Very happy with the results so far - about 3000 LP's and 800 tapes ripped. With clicks and pops removed, the vinyl sounds better digitized. Very happy with the results so far.
I've been digitizing LPs for a few years now. Over 2000 digitized. Through the years I've tried/used various equipment and software. The front end should be whatever you like best... like you said with any 100 audiophiles you'll get a 101 answers of what is "best". For the digitizing process I tried to follow the KISS principle. I wanted the ADC/DAC in one box. before a month ago I used the Metric Halo LIO-8 with mic preamps, and doing RIAA in the digital domain. I had to use a SUT (Bob's Devices) into the LIO-8 to get enough gain for the Ortofon A-90 cart. Although the LIO-8's mic preamps have adjustable gain, by the time I had the gain high enough the noise was noticeable. I am now using the Zesto Andros Phono Stage for gain and RIAA correction, into the Placette Active Line Stage and then into the LIO-8. Plenty of gain, VERY quiet, very neutral, and great sound. The LIO-8 is connected to computer (iMac) via firewire.

For recording I use either the recording software that comes with the LIO-8 or Audacity (free). Very difficult to tell any difference between the two... if there is any. Opinions seem to vary on this issue. I generally record at 24/96 mainly due to hard drive space. (Drobo 8 TB, 1/2 filled). If I record/digitize with the LIO-8 software I import into Audacity to edit, i.e. label tracks, remove excess time between tracks, fade in, fade out and make sure the lead in and out are completely silent. Within iTunes I also document the recording equipment used, LP label, number, and any other pertinent info. Click/pop removal can be easily done manually within Audacity although it can be quite time consuming for older LPs with lots of clicks/pops. For noisy LPs I use Click Repair, available online for a modest charge. The effect on the sound is like using Dolby to remove tape hiss. You loose a little air and add a thin veil, but it's worth it for those old treasures that have been played a lot... probably on rather primitive equipment. I tried the Channel D software early on but found it very clunky and time consuming to use compared to what I do now, and did not think it added anything to improve the sound. YMMV. A favorite test is to ask audiophile friends to tell which is which when switching back and forth... analog or digital. Basically they can't tell the difference.

My system is a mix of old and new but brings a smile to my face:
Ortofon A 90 in a Immedia RPM2 arm on a modified SOTA Star Saphire TT > Zesto Andros PS > Placette Active Line Stage > Metric Halo LIO-8 >iMac via firewire. Playback is via same route into Odyssey Stratos Dual Mono (currently ungraded to highest level possible) for mid/highs and a modified Hafler 500 for bass > Infinity IRS Beta (modified) speakers via dual runs of old Polk Cobra speaker cables for the mid/highs, and old Monster M2 speaker wire for bass. Transparent ICs. I know there are many improvements that could be made but things change slowly around here!

Sorry if I got off tangent and did not focus on equipment only. There are many knowledgeable people around here so I know you'll find what works best for you. Another good resource might be Computer Audiophile.com. There has been much discussion over there, especially on the LIO-8.
Best regards, Rod