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Dedicated Lines - 32 amps possible?

I no electrical expert and am planning to install 2 dedicated lines (220v, 32amps) each. Is this possible or overkill since almost everyone else is using 20 amps.

Here is my scenario:

Line 1 :
- Installed JPS AC power in wall cable (80 ft) from panel and will be used for power amps only.
- incoming power is 230v 63 amps, electrician already installed a separate MCB, ELCB, and i have the choice of installing either a 20 or 32 amp Type C breaker. This is seperate from the main box, he tapped the power out to the separate box.
- this line will run to an isolator near the equipment (basically it is a big ON/OFF switch). At this Isolator, this will split going into 2 x Duplex Furutech Gold Receptacles...
- amps used are McCormack 225 monoblocks and possibly Earthquake Grand Cinenova 5 channel...This amp has a 4kva trans inside which the dealer says, tends to trip breakers due to high current draw during start up..thus the 32 amp question...
- simplistic thought...since this line will split into 2 outlets, if all three amps are on, will the current draw be high enough to warrant the 32 amps or will 20 amps be enough..

Line 2:
- this is just normal Romex wire which is 6mm dia each (I think this is either 12 or 10 guage)...
- this is also running from the separate box that is installed...I have the option of either putting a 20 amp or 32 amp Type C breaker....
- this will also go to a separate Isolator that will go into a Furutech duplex receptacle...
- this outlet will be for the Hydra 8 that will connect the CD, DVD and Pre-amp....

Both lines are running together and because of the plastic trunking, there is a plastic separator between the cables....

So, should I go to 20 amp breakers or 32 amps...

Thanks for your advice.
teck5
teck5 OP
47 posts
 
Hi Jea48,

Let me check on your suggestions with the electrician...I see what you are saying....and the last thing I want to do is to mess things up...

My approach has been:
- make sure that the incoming lines are separate from the main box...with separate breakers....this is done....
- make sure that the amp line and other components line are separate...this is done....
- make sure there is enough juice....thus the 32 amps...this is done ....but realise through your questions that the receptacles may not be rated for this (esp at 32 amps)

I will check with Furutech again....just to be doubly sure..

Could you please try clicking the 2nd link again...I tried it and I was able to go through....the second link is to the furutech page...
http://www.furutech.com/produ_2.asp?ProdNo=73

Let me get back to you on this...Thanks again....
gs5556
1,239 posts
 
Contact the amplifier manufacturers and ask them about power requirements. Or better yet, pop open the fuse holders and look at the amp rating of the fuses. Bet you they are 10 amps, give or take. If they're less than 15 amps (or even 20), then they cannot possibly trip circuit breakers as the dealer claims. Hopefully, this helps.
sol322
426 posts
 
Gs5556 has a good point here, Teck5 the comment on breaker tripping made by dealer is based on customer having dedicated lines or regular house where line is shared with other electric loads?. That's my first question.
Second the distance for the in wall wire is long so Nsgrach comment on increasing this conductor size makes sense.

Key question to ask is if the amp has a soft start feature which can ease up the load during start.
teck5 OP
47 posts
 
Hi,

This is what is stated on the Earthquake site...

Fault indicators
Each block is equipped with two (10 amperes) fuses designed to protect and monitor the voltage of operating rails (+/-). Each fuse carries its own fault LED indicator that illuminates when the fuse is burnt.

Doesn't say much and I guess I will have to check... The dealer did indicate it would be be best to run a dedicated 20 amp line with a Type C breaker (this is for industrial use and is more forgiving when there is a high current draw, it will trip so quickly)

If you look in the back of the Earthquake amp, there seems to be a breaker as well...built in above the inlet...

My McCormack monoblocks (they are arriving this week, not in yet) before mods is rated at 5A/600w at clipping (8 ohms), at idle it is 1.1A/130w....after the mods estimated at clipping is at 10A/1,000w per side...so 10A each (total 20A.) if i play that loud....

For the cables, I checked...the JPS labs and the "Romex" type cables are 10 guage which can handle the 32 amps...Sorry to ask a dumb question, but why should i be concerned about the length of cable versus the guage type...???

I will be checking on Furutech's ratings, and the Earthquake Cinenova Grande (soft start feature)...
Will get back...

Thanks for the responses so far...
sol322
426 posts
 
Teck:

Cables do have a current carrying capacity based on their gauge. For short runs a cable that works fine can not perform well in longer runs due to resistance (the longer the cable run larger resistance you get) so the recommendation on thicker gauge to avoid this losses. Typically we find that gauges used in audio installations are heavier than the normal electrical criteria suggests. I've done the same (i.e. thicker) and got good results. Steady load consumption is one scenario but current peak demands are another. Just my 2 cents.
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