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bypassing a crossover in a two-way

i am not a tech person so forgive any ignorance. i want to bypass the crossover in a simple and cheap two way, because the main driver is the same one used in the manufacturer's crossoverless design.

the manufacturer gave me the following instructions: "A 0.68uf cap in series with the tweeter + lead is all you need,, - to the - binding post." I'm not sure what this means. looking into the speaker i can see the black and red wires leave the speaker leads and inter the crossover network. leaving the crossover are two sets of black and white wires, one set going to the leads on the woofer, the other connected to the single wire from the tweeter.

am i to cut the speaker wire before it reaches the crossover and then insert the cap? if so, how, specifically, do i these three connections to a single cap (1. the input from the speaker leads, 2. the output to the woofer, and 3. the output to the tweeter)? i am not able to visualize his statement in relation to what i've described as the inside the speaker cabinet. i've looked elsewhere on the web but to no avail. i realize it is simple but just don't have the background.

any help would be very much appreciated.
thomp9015
s7horton
1,077 posts
 
Disconnect the (+) lead off the tweeter and solder one end of the cap on the tweeter and the other end onto the positive binding post.

You'll probably have to use a small wire from the end of the new cap to the binding post. As the lead from the new cap most likely isn't long enough to reach the binding post.

It sounds like there must be a series crossover in this cabinet and in order to complete the circuit but pull the tweeter portion you, you have to do this.
thomp9015 OP
79 posts
 
thanks for your help...do i have this right? i connect the main driver directly to the binding post. in addition, i put the capacitor inbetween the positive binding post and the positive wire of the tweeter. if so, what happens to the negative tweeter wire?
240zracer
121 posts
 
You need 4 wires coming from the binding posts, two positive and two negative. One of the pairs goes directly to the woofer. The other pair goes to the tweeter, but has a cap in the positive wire on the way to the tweeter. The cap is cutting low frequency to the tweeter so you don't blow it. The woofer will be running full range.
gregm
3,405 posts
 
No, no. ASAI understand (& horton as well) you solder the cap to the tweet's + and run a wire fm the cap's other pole to the + binding post. You run a wire fm the tweet's - straight to the -binding post.

OTOH, are you sure about that 0,68uf??
thomp9015 OP
79 posts
 
it sounds like 240zracer and gregm are saying the same thing, which finally occured to me at lunch today...at least they seem to be saying the same thing (tweeter + goes to cap and other end of cap to + binding post, then negative tweet wire straight to negative binding post).

one tweeter wire is black and the other is black and white, while the main driver wires are black and red. should the black be the negative in both cases?

anyway, thanks again guys.

oh yeah, the manufacturer told me that the cap was 0.68uf so i will take him at his word (fortunately these were rather inexpensive, though i don't won't to make a truly boneheaded error and blow something i don't need to!).
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