Dedicated power

Mark, I am not following your comment regarding 10AWG wire and a possible code violation. I thought that the NEC specified the minimum gauge for the wiring and that the installation of larger conductors, while overkill from a safety perspective, could do no harm.

As I understand it, undersized conductors can overheat and cause problems to the extent the circuit sees sustained current draw approaching its maximum rated capacity. As a result, using conductors that are smaller than the NEC-specified minumum can pose a hazard and constitutes a violation of the Code. On the other hand, larger conductors (e.g., 10AWG wire in a 20A circuit) will pass with flying colors and never pose a safety hazard in a similar test. What is your perspective on this?

That some outlets may not be rated for larger than 12ga would be the potential issue (connection points not large or secure enough). However, the often recommended Hubbells, PorterPorts and Jena Labs outlets will all handle 10ga wire with no trouble. And I would expect many others will do so as well.
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Bob, it's not the undersized/oversized wire issue that I was referring to. As you state, it's better to have thicker wire. It's the receptacle that I was referring to. Most duplexes are manufactured for 14 or 12 gauge wire, including the hospital grade receptacles that audiophiles often use. If you put a 10 gauge wire in it, the receptacle may overheat and pose a fire hazard if it's not rated for this size of wire. Or the wire won't fit properly in the receptacle. Either the screw on the side won't hold it and the wire will work itself loose with temperature changes, or the little hole at the back for inserting the wire directly into the duplex will be too small. So people may jam it in damaging it. It should say on the duplex itself what size wire you can use. Ten gauge wire is fine. I'm not disputing that. I'm just suggesting that people be careful to do it properly. Also keep in mind that there are often local electrical codes that add to the NEC, thereby imposing stricter requirements. You have to check the area where you live.

Thanks, Mark.

Most, if not all, new receptacles have terminals that accomodate 14, 12 and 10 wire. Even the 15-amp 5-15R. The limiting factor is not the wire but the circuit breaker. The breaker must not pass more current than the wire ampacity that's it's connected to. So you could put a set of 500MCM wires on a 20-amp breaker feeding a 15-amp receptacle (that's not physically possible, I'm making a point). In your case, #10 wires are good for 30-amps but when used for a branch receptacle circuit, the breaker can only be 20-amps max. When the breaker limits the current, a larger wire size is not an issue. Correct wire sizes are equivalent to steel beam sizes - you can go bigger than what's needed to do the job if you don't care about money.

Where and why #10 instead of #12 when a 20-amp breaker is the most permitted? When voltage drop is a concern. Generally, #10 is used when there is a 50 foot or more total wire length from panel to receptacle. Less than that, you are wasting money as #12 is more than adequate.

Also keep in mind that any 115 volt device with a UL label can be safely be put on a 15-amp circuit. That's where the confusion lies over 15-amp receptacle with 20-amp breakers. The circuit will never draw the 20-amps as you are limited by code to size your system based on a ten receptacle maximum on a circuit, each one 180 VA, or 1,800 VA (15-amps) total.

Overheating a circuit is an end-user created problem (power strips and extension cords). It's your choice for the wire sizes, #10 will work and fit properly.