Audio Rack Construction


Happy New Year All!

I'm planning a rack with three wood (maple) shelves using threaded rod as the supports. This will be something similar to Salamander racks. Besides, the metal washers and nuts, I'm going to be using some type of isolation washer that will contact the top and bottom of each shelf.
So...shelf, isoloation washer, metal washer, and then nut.

Questions: 1. When passing the threaded rod through each shelf, should the holes in the shelves not allow the threaded rod to touch, so the only thing touching the shelves are the isolation washers? 2. Besides neoprene, what's a good material for the isolation washers? 3. After leveling each shelf during assembly, I'm planning to add aluminum tubing over the threaded rod and nuts between each shelf for a cleaner look. This would mean that the top and bottom ends of the aluminum tubing would also contact the shelves. Should I avoid this, or additionally add some isolation material between the ends of the tubes and the shelves?
kennythekey
Several people in my local audio group have built racks similar to what you're proposing. In each case, removing the isolating washers made an improvement. Take a look at the systems of Audiogon members Sbank and Slipknot1.
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Well, there you have it nice and simple.

I know that brass is a coveted material, but it appears that Slipknot is using steel but that's hard to see. Brass gets expensive especially with all those nuts and bolts. I was thinking about using 5/8" steel rod and fasteners, and then covering it with the aluminum. I was first thinking 3/4" but nuts at that size are special order where I am.

For the top shelf I was going to use brass nuts/washers to match the bottom feet. I've been looking for a flat brass end cap for the top nuts but no luck.
Try boltdepot.com for your source, also mcmaster carrs
they both have a wide range of parts at industrial prices
I had an old Mike Green rack. Very good in its time. I did learn to replace all the steel with brass for much improved sound. Don't try to isolate with rubber or any other type of suspended material. If you couple all the way thru and then mechanically couple all the componets to the shelves and couple the rack to the floor with audiopoints or stillpoints then you will have a decent sounding rack. Last thing is to look away from pressed materials such as mdf..lotsa mass and glue for that over damped and dead sound. Vibration can be given direction away from components and a damped shelf or component will disrupt direction and slow the transfer of energy away from the device your trying to enhance. If you can manage to use solid wood shelves this would be better than a non directional material like mdf. Think of the rack as a musical instrument in that you want it to be active {though rigid] and with more playing time it will create its own vibrational direction and become even more open and coherent. Place your most active components on the middle shevles. The center area will give your tubes, your turntable and your transport the greatest stability and audible coherence. In the end you want to provide a path and direction for all of these vibrations to pass thru and out and be coupled [discharged] to the higher mass of ground..the floor. Tom