Here is a
link to the other thread (which I didn't author), and if you read my post there you can see that I too did not subscribe to the notion of a "best" tweeter design.
First, here a major correction on my part is in order, quickly before I make a(n even) bigger ass of myself: It's not a 20-way design that's needed to get from 20Hz to 20KHz in 1/2-octave intervals per driver -- if you do the math, which I finally did, only(!) 17 steps are required (or 18 if you want to go 'supertweeter' on top just for the hell of it). So that's 16 (or 17) crossover points. Ahem!
I agree that sheer physical size would be challenge in a 17-way speaker -- and I actually don't love monster speakers. You can't move them easily enough, and being able to move a speaker by yourself is important IMO.
But then again, I always think that most home audio speakers, whether audiophile-approved or not, and including many very expensive ones, don't really take seriously the notion of being able to fully reproduce the live event at convincing sound pressure levels with listenably low distortion. And one of the reasons -- or maybe I should say one of the results of the kind of thinking that leads to this situation (thinking about aesthetics, marketing and profitability) -- is simply that most speakers are too small and have too little driver area to make anything but a scale-model size replica of the original music. Or, if you turn it up loud to enough to approach what seems like realistic scale, you hear the unatural strain.
It's my contention that the vast majority of even $20K+ speakers are but toys in the face of the job they're ostensibly meant to tackle. They can look nice and even sound very good, but they can't suspend disbelief by themselves -- the listener must be a practiced participant in doing so. (That's what we audiophiles are.)
In some respects (well, probably many respects, but I'll stick to this particular one for the nonce), audiophiles are being played for suckers if the goal is realistic reproduction of an orchestra or a rock band, or anything with a drum kit or a grand piano in it for that matter. Consider all the resonating area contained in a piano or a drum kit (or a Marshall stack), then look at your speakers' drivers and try not to snicker. Some speakers the size of twin 'fridges still employ single 1" tweeters -- compare that against even the smallest crash cymbal. We're constantly heaped with tantalizing descriptives for costly, pretty boxes that simply aren't equipped to succeed. Not that that's not OK from a size or cost or livability perspective -- I enjoy 2-way minimonitors and 3 1/2ft. tall, 8-inch 3-way towers as much as the next person, and have never personally owned anything larger -- just as long as we don't kid ourselves otherwise about the sonic capabilities.
I can think of three strategies that could be employed to address the unwieldy size question concerning my own daydream speaker. One is cabinet construction of higher-tech, lighter-weight molded materials, as opposed to the standard MDF (or even heavier alternatives), making use of stronger curved shapes rather than the standard rectilinear forms. Another is modularity: Again, I think aesthetics, marketing and profitability, more than ultimate sound quality, leads to most speaker makers literally thinking 'inside the box' when it comes to cabinet form. IMO any speaker big enough to convey the proverbial power of the orchestra ought to be made of stacking modules and not require a semi, a forklift and a moving team to be delivered and installed, or to have their placement adjusted. (Yes, movability is a sound quality issue.) The third is fairly common these days: Side-mounted LF drivers, which saves on overall height, something that (as Timlub points out) would be at a premium in a 17-way design.
Of course electronic (line-level) crossovers and active design quickly suggests itself in this concept, but even with dedicated, relatively inexpensive Class D amps, 34 'channels' worth of power, and the cabling to match, is daunting, and restricting. Complications of perfectly phase-coherent design aside (not impossible I don't think, but also not completely critical either), I'd probably shoot for a more conventional (ha!) passive version first, driveable by standard stereo or monoblock amps.