The following is a very recent extract from a member of another forum.
I have met this individual and been introduced / demo'd their work undertaken on Valve and SS Amp's, on some occasions, their Amp's have been compared to much more expensive Branded designs.
I have also been demo'd the individuals Active OB Speakers along Amp's designed for the role of driving the Speakers, and can categorically say, that these OB's are the best I have experienced to date.
This very experienced individual with a vast knowledge of Audio Equipment and who has very strong ties with the UK HiFi Industry, has made this statement about Neurochrome Amp's very recently.
" I've been using a Modulus 86 for a while now, having acquired the "Cadbury" amp built by Alan with dual mono LPS some time ago. I've been very happy with it, it brought to an end many years of playing with various amps both valve and SS. It's the closest thing I've heard at home to a straight wire with gain and have not had any urge for change. Given my speakers are approx' 91-92dB and an easy load, it goes as loud as I could wish.
Saying that, it was always the intention to go for a 686, just in case I'm missing something with the lower powered version. :-)
So what I have so far is- Monoblocks, 500va toroids , active bridges, 4 x 47,000uF per mono.
Belles Aria, a" tube like sound". Not exactly, but it sounds sublime, a little warm, a little smooth, yet plenty of detail. Moving up the chain just gets better.
My Parasound 200 is a killer integrated. Its available in a preamp only flavor. Significantly more pleasing than my Primaluna Pre. More warmth and body. Begs to be turned up. Primaluna begs you to turn it down even with Mullard tubes. I have learned the hard way, Tubes do not guarantee romance and warmth.
A hear hear for the Wells brand. I have the Innamorata amplifier connected directly to the outputs of my Matrix X-Sabre pro in preamp mode pushing my Moabs and the sound is incredibly detailed, smooth, organic and powerful. I’ve tried a few different preamps with it but I keep returning to the DAC direct route. More clarity without any downsides.
A very smart man by the name of Bob Carver addressed this problem several years ago. I found it with one of his Carver M.10t amps I refurbished. Read "The Carver Challenge"
Many years ago I A/B’d a highly regarded pair of Paoli M70 mono blocks against a B&K EX442 Sonata and was completely blown away with how identical in sound these two amps were and how utterly tubelike the B&K actually was.
The Paoli’s were a highly modified pair of Dyna MkIII’s using 8417 output tubes and the B&K a 200 wpc dual mono SS amp. B&K’s always had a solid reputation of sounding very tubelike and the EX442 didn’t disappoint. One could be had in the under $500 range. I think you’d be hard pressed to find something as reasonably priced and as tubelike.
I think I have zeroed in on the Pass Lab 1st Watt. Now to decipher the differences in models, although I have read the actual tube sound of the SET may not actually be a tube sound, maybe just a similarity. I think I will decide on one of these models and compare it to my QS's and then decide.
There are just too many options out there, I need to plant my feet.
Ive started a new thread specifically on the 1st Watt series.
Some Marantz, some Sansui, some Luxman, and some others with the right synergy coupling may not be too far from tubes fluidity and holographic details... + many more other advantages over tubes amplification...
if what i wrote is false , except for my own personal ezxperience, why are they became mythical loved vintage ?
Because they sound as S.S. not well designed ?
Or the opposite ?
😊
To beat them it takes contemporary top design as the atma sphere class D amplification for example... I dont doubt thay they will better my Sansui alpha...But the last top acclaimed tube amplification for headphone i just bought and returned after one hour did not... 😁
I say that for people with no big budget who dream about audiophile experience... The others will probably mock my claim pretending that the Alpha is obsolete... But for some wallet there exist a ratio S.Q./price ... I am not envious of any system and mine all pieces together cost me 700 bucks...It did not lack on any acoustic factor either... Synergy and optimization of the components are mandatory for sure...
I had many tube and SS amps and I have narrowed down my choice to the Marantz 1182dc Integrated amp. These amps have the tube sound and have better quality parts verses the typical Marantz 2275 receivers which I have owned as well. These amps not only have that rare silver classic look, but they're can also be easily repaired at any local audio repair shop. The 1182dc have plenty of power to run any speaker and you can tailor the sound to your room. These amps are very well built and can be pass-down or sold with returned investment. The any of the 11XX integrated models are a winner. Low wattage Marantz amps are fine, but I have 50 watts per a channel threshold.
If you happen to read this far, Merrill Audio Veritas monoblocks are fabulous. They're my summer amps, and Allnic A-5000 monos provide some warmth during the cooler months here in NC. The Allnics are parallel SET 300B'S producing 25wpc. Both are used to drive either my Fleetwood Devilles or my Tannoy Kensingtons, both @ 93db & 8 ohms.
The Veritas are 400wpc @ 8 ohms, 700wpc @ 4.
I absolutely love both amps. Do they sound identical? Of course not. My Manley Classic 300b SE/PP monoblocks (also two 300b's/monoblock) produce 24wpc, but don't sound as much like the Allnics as the Veritas. The Allnics have slightly more "coherence" to their presentation; the Veritas have a bit more "jump factor" (sound more energized) - which I like too!
Whether it's the headroom/dynamic range afforded by its higher power rating or Merrill's use of the Hypex modules, I don't know. Ultimately, it's because Merrill designs MUSICAL products. IT'S THE IMPLEMENTATION, STUPID.
Speaking of stupid, the Veritas originally sold for $12K, and I bought a pair about 2 years ago for $3.2K. I created a "problem" with one mono, and sent both back to Merrill to be fixed & "refreshed". Merrill turned them around and two days later they were on their way back, and clothed in all new packaging. He charged me $99, which I think just covered the shipping! Merrill is "one of us"! I'll be hanging onto mine until they pry the remote out of my dead hands!
I may have made an assumption about the PS Audio network card based on how good the one in my Bricasti M3 is.
As to streaming, I have Tidal, Qobuz and an extensive library of ripped CDs and many DSD files.
In any case, given your attitude, thick headedness and sarcasm that prevent you from being receptive to a different perspective and ideas other than what you have convinced yourself of, I’m over and out. Enjoy the journey.
Now, I know what you guys are thinking, but in defense of @Audphile1 , if he is listening to CD’s, then yes, absolutely, PSAudios Bridge will sound fantastic and streaming will be the "best", but scrap the bridge and play DSD through Audirvana, bypassing Mac processing through a good USB and the sound will shock even the learned ears of Audiphile1.
"""A much better solution would be to use the PS Audio DAC with its built in network card and stream using ethernet. """"
The PSAudio Bridge sounds like poop. I can only assume you have never tried it and compared it to the USB. If this is true, you are sounding like a brochure warrior, just saying. All you would have to do is peruse the PSAudio forum to know the Bridge sounds like crap.
""But with the DSD DAC built in network card you don’t even need a dedicated streamer. ""
I do if I want it to sound better than the bridge and besides DSD files sound better. I only use Qobuz to demo albums and then I purchase DSD.
""It and the PS Audio DAC would need to be on the same network."""
I can’t recommend a SS amp that sounds like tubes. You’ve already gotten recommendations on good sounding amplifiers.
As to using mac mini as a streamer, which is what you’re doing, it’s not optimized for this task. You have OS running, background processes and Audirvana running on it processing music files from hard drive (hope it’s SSD). All that good stuff that’s happening inside loads up processor and memory, results in good amounts of heat and generates noise and interference that you end up feeding via a USB out that’s not optimized for streaming music. Add to that the noise generated by the internal power supply. All that junk from the Mini gets fed into your DAC. On top of it, your computer is probably close to your components and cables and is plugged into the same circuit. You are now dealing with EMI and the garbage that the Mini dumps back into the circuit that’s powering your system.
A much better solution would be to use the PS Audio DAC with its built in network card and stream using ethernet. Have your Mac Mini as far away from your system as possible. It and the PS Audio DAC would need to be on the same network.
When you’re using a dedicated streamer, you take advantage of the optimized USB and other digital outputs, cool running processors and internal isolation. You also get a better power supply that’s designed with audio in mind. But with the DSD DAC built in network card you don’t even need a dedicated streamer.
My tube experience is extensive; from Conrad Johnson; McIntosh, Dynaco, Allnic, Prima Luna, and many more.
Pass Labs is the only SS amp that truly has the midrange bloom that sounds and feels like tubes. They’re Class A products such as XA25, XA60.8, and now I have X260.8 Monoblocks which are the best of what I have had.
The Integrated; INT-60.8 is very much a tube like sound with out the hassle and can be bought used for $5600-$6500. It is the kink of company which answers the phone live and does things like answer your questions; send you free things; just because, and will fix your amp or remote control even when its clearly out of service; done it 3 times in my life.
Anyone that has been into performing music...going to live concerts or just listening to their rig at "Decent" volume levels for their entire life ( including the reviewers)....has some form of tinnitus. That has nothing to do with enjoying this hobby of ours. ....by listening to music, it actually masks some of that ringing.
IME it certainly does to a significant degree. I suffered from tinnitus for a while when I was vitamin D deficient years ago. But chronic tinnitus at an advanced age is a good indicator that the sufferer has significant overall hearing loss, likely from all those loud concerts you mentioned. Those with chronic tinnitus caused by loudness exposure are firmly on the road to eventual dependence on hearing aids.
This pervasive notion that audiophiles who’ve suffered hearing damage due to exposure can judge component performance as well as anyone is simply flawed logic and completely false.
Although I did tour for years, I always wore ear filters, which I still wear today when I play. I also rarely play the hifi to crazy levels. High levels destroy depth of soundstage. I have no tinnitus.
So, the vast majority yes, but I have taken care. Any youngsters out there should take heed; I have musician friends that did not and they suffer. In particular, a mando player I play with is half deaf with tinnitus. I tried to tell him even for the last ten years and one day, he was finished. He suffers terribly, not just in listening to music. He suffers all day every day with very loud screaming in his left ear.
Anyone that has been into performing music...going to live concerts or just listening to their rig at "Decent" volume levels for their entire life ( including the reviewers)....has some form of tinnitus. That has nothing to do with enjoying this hobby of ours. ....by listening to music, it actually masks some of that ringing.
"""I know of multiple audiophiles who come on here and other sites espousing the sound quality of various components, then elsewhere they reluctantly admit they rely on hearing aids or suffer from tinnitus."""
🤣🤣
I know what you mean. It explains alot of random comments.
I’ve owned some decent tube gear over the years (Cayin, Rogue, Allnic, Van Alstine) and some nearly high-end SS stuff (Coda, Pass, Mac etc.) I’ve also auditioned some of the very high-end brands. Admittedly, I don’t have much experience with low power SETs but I do believe I’ve heard some of the best of what push-pull tube gear has to offer.
IME, the Yamaha MOSFET-powered integrateds (specifically the previous 1100/2100/3000 series, not as much the current series) come closest to the tube sound than so many desire. This isn’t to say they’re slow and mushy, rather they have nicely saturated tones, a lush midrange and expansive soundstage. On top of that, the bass extension (of the 2100) competes with some of the beast SS amps over $10K. They sound far more powerful than their specs indicate (especially the 2100). The preamp sections in these integrateds are worth their original retail price alone IMO. I realize this all sounds like hyperbole, but when you actually compare these integrateds back-to-back with other amps costing multiples their retail price, they are hardly outclassed. Typically, what I find is that some of the much costlier amps do one or two things a little better, but none have outperformed the Yamaha’s in every metric. That includes comparisons between the Yamaha preamp sections and separate preamps around and under $6K. Twice now I’ve preferred the Yamaha preamp sections to stand-alone preamps approaching $6K, one of them tube (Allnic) and one SS. I won’t mention the latter one because I still need to sell it. 😉
While the various speakers I’ve used in these comparisons (Revel, Spendor, Stirling Broadcast, Spatial, KEF, Magnepan, Audio Physic) are considered “mid-fi” by the standards of this community, they are speakers that have mostly punched above or well above their respective price classes. And I’ve heard what far costlier speakers can do in good rooms, thus I believe I have a decent frame of reference.
With regard to push-pull tubes, I have found there are quite a few competive SS offerings in addition to these Yamahas, such as Coda and Pass Labs. But for around $2K on the pre-owned market, I think you’d be very hard pressed to do better than a Yammie 2100.
I think it’s also worth mentioning that I am relatively young among these parts and my audiogram tests show I still have excellent hearing. I don’t say that out of ageism. I merely believe it’s relevant because I know of multiple audiophiles who come on here and other sites espousing the sound quality of various components, then elsewhere they reluctantly admit they rely on hearing aids or suffer from tinnitus.
I owned the PrimaLuna EVO 400 preamp and power amp combo and really liked it. I wanted to go back to SS gear that had a tube sound.
That said, the PrimaLuna was replaced with a Luxman L509X integrated which came very close to a tube amplifier. Then, I decided to go back to separates and I currently have the Holo Audio Serene KTE preamp and a Parasound JC5 amp. The JC5 amp is a sweet sounding amp which comes close to a tube sound, but I haven’t heard a SS amp that sounded just like tubes. It may exist, but I haven’t heard one yet. I do highly recommend the Parasound JC5 amp because it’s a lot of bang for the buck. They can be found for a good price on the used market and I recommend you try to audition one if you can. The Music Room may have a few and they allow about 30 days to audition. That’s where I bought mine from.
Lastly, in my experience, it’s all about system synergy. So, the preamp will play a part in what the SS amp will sound like in your setup and of course, your speakers.
this little amplifier is absolutely spectacular for the money!
It’s only 30 watts, but I can power fairly large speakers and just about any bookshelf because it has a lot of current. I loved mine. It does sound like tubes.
Earlier you said your Mac Mini is used only as NAS. Now you’re saying it is connected to the DAC via USB cable.
NAS = Network Area Storage, would mean that your DAC would be accessing the data stored on Mac Mini by means of a network connection. And that isn’t how you have it all set up.
So in the end, you are using the Mini as a streamer. Let me repeat what I said earlier - Mac Mini sucks as a streamer. If you like the sound of your current amplification, focus on upgrading your source. Your digital front end is far from optimized.
@tonydennison I have wrote about the Neurochrome and Pass BK1, KB1 a few times over the Years.
The Pass Pre-Amp’ has a Korg Nutube incorporated which is a very modern version of a Tetrode Valve and is claimed to have a 30 000 hour usage life.
I know this Pre-Amp very well, I also am quite familiar with it produced as a non-standard build guise. I have a design of it built for myself and is awaiting to be completed when I make the bespoke casings being produced available.
As a standard build it held its own against very expensive Branded Pre-Amp's as a non-standard build, the cost difference between the Pass and the comparison Pre's make the idea of the Pass Pre-Amp' a no-brainer.
I have been demo'd the Neurochrome in an approx' £200 000 System in comparisons with Power Amplification getting close to £50 000 for SS, where both Branded Model SS and Valve Power Amp's were included in the Demo's.
A 211 Valve Power Amp was used at approx' £30 000.
There is absolutely nothing from my perspective to suggest the Neurochrome fell short in any way, and it was able to deliver the impression it was as relaxing and enjoyable to experience as any Valve Amp I have a familiarity with.
I have been demo'd on a regular occasions the Pass BK1 + differing build guises > Neurochrome 86 and it is as enjoyed through recollection as when I heard the Soulution 525 > Neurochrome 286 used in demo's alongside the 525 > and much more expensive Power Amp's.
My example is via headphones. I sold my $7k RAAL VM-1a tube headphone amp which was glorious. I replaced that with the $800 Class A Schitt Aegir amp + Benchmark preamp, It was about 90% as good as the VM-1a.
I already had the LA4 preamp for my 2-channel setup, so I leveraged that for both 2-channel and headphones. For some preceptive, my CODA #16 amp on the same headphone setup is about 90% as good as the VM-1a on the phones. That is an amazing compliment for the Aegir to be equally good in this setup.
The Aegir is only 20 watts @ 8 Ohms. For my headphone needs it is spectacular. If I had a very easy to drive speaker, I would want to test it out with the Aegir.
BTW - I think it is impossible for any 2-channel amp to equal the VM-1a. There is an adapter needed for any 2-chanel amp to connect to the RAAL phones and none is needed for the VM-1a.
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