Best method and software to convert vinyl to cd

Just saw an ad for this little device that will let you record your records directly into a USB port in your PC...
http://news.harmony-central.com/Newp/2005/USB-Phono-Plus.html --(this company's products have a good rep..no I'm not affiliated)

Surely others will chime in with the best way to deal with the clicks and breaking the stream up into tracks.

There are several people on Vinyl Asylum who are very experienced at doing this. John Elison is one. Check there if you don't get any good info here.

MCWEBB,

I take my albums and make CD's of them. I love the bargins in jazz and classical on lp versus CD. Also, you can find recordings of obsure jazz that Cd's have not 'repressed' yet.

As for software, I approach it as if I was taping an Lp. All I have a a good Lp front-end and a Denon w1500 dual-tray cd writer. It's a good unit that filters the groove noise on most of my lps. They are rare on Audiogon but go for around $350 used ($500 new). If you would like something more 'pro', cadence music in Chicago-area has good stuff. In any event, purchase the Yaiden blanks he has...there the best.

Marty Nickison

P.S. email me if you would like to hear a sample cd of what this can do.

Alesis offers an excellent unit where you record the analogue source to the internal hard disk. Once it is on the hard disk you can assign track numbers and other editing features. It does not require a PC to work; ie, it is a stand alone product and can be had new for 800 I think.

My interest in this same subject led me to consider a stand alone recorder, one not PC based. In addition to far superior (I've read) audio I'd have the advantage of keeping equipment together. The http://www.hhb.co.uk/hhb/usa/hhbproducts/cdr830/index.asp

type player lets you use CD-r's rather than CD audio's because this recorder, there are others, is for the recording industry. This machine could also take my Internet radio or music site's that generate a digital signal and record that.

But I haven't done it yet so I can't give you a critical appraisal.

I use a Sound Forge 5.0 Program.I record on my modified reel to reel recorder run the outputs to my inputs of my sound card with as high a quality ic as possible.I put the WAV file on my Sound Forge Program.The program also has vinyl restoration,and Noise Reduction 2.0
I do not utilize this due to the main program offering this already ina round about way.
I enlarge the sine wave to close too 1:1 in resolution.With the wave blown up this big I can clearly see the record tick and can click on that.Once I click on that part of the signal then I click on superimpose and the program removes the click only and nothing else.This works very well but is very time consuming,and this method for me is only recommended for disks without to many clicks if possible.

I get good results by this method:

1) Use a standalone "pro" CD recorder like the Tascam CD-RW750. I have had much better results with an outboard CD recorder rather than using a computer, although the computer-based would probably work OK with a good external sound module and good isolation.

2) Run high-quality interconnects directly out from your phono stage into the CD recorder. If you want to listen as you record, run a second pair of interconnects out from the recorder to an amp, or use headphones with the recorder.

3) Record each LP side as a single track, direct to CD-RW. Don't worry about extra space at the beginning or end of the recording. I find trying to split tracks during recording to be a hassle and error-prone. It at least requires lifting the tone-arm between tracks. When done recording, finalize the CD-RW and insert it into a Windows PC.

4) I use Sound Forge on a Windows PC to rip the two tracks and bring them up on screen for editing. This is very fast, usually only a couple minutes for an LP.

5) Split the tracks each into actual tracks, saving each as a separate file. This could not be easier with Sound Forge, and very fast. You can trim any starting and ending time, and with a bit of practice all the splitting can be done visually just looking at the amplitudes. At this point you free up the CD-RW and can reuse it for the next job.

6. Apply any de-clicking or other restoration techniques you wish to the new tracks. I try to keep digital processing to a minimum, but a measure of de-clicking seems to help nearly all LPs and is not sonically damaging to my ears if used on a low setting. I increase the setting for records with more obvious problems.

7. Use whatever CD burning program you want to create the final CD. I have good results burning at 4x (staying on slower speeds improves quality) and using black CD-Rs.

This method requires the CD-burner (which can nicely integrate into your hi-fi system) and the editing software, but the results have been astounding. A number of the CDs I have created this way are among the best sounding of all my CDs (including commercial ones).

Of course start with a clean record (I use VPI 16.5/disc doctor).

Although this may sound like a lot of work it goes very fast, with a bit of practice. Besides the time it takes to play the LP, in which you can enjoy listening to it, the editing takes about 5-10 minutes per LP and burning about 10 minutes per CD. Probably the biggest hassle to me is whenever I go to dub an album I unplug the phono stage from the preamp and plug it into the CD recorder. Swapping cables is annoying and only necessary because I am so finicky about not wanting to keep the recorder in the signal path for normal playing. A phono stage with dual or switched outputs would be handy.

Roger

I have the Alesis ML9600. You can use the RCA digital inputs to record LPs to the HD, do mixing or sorting if you like, then burn a CDR. I don't use it for that purpose, but if you go to the Stereophile archives and look up Michael Fremmers review that is exactly what he is talking about.

These go for $800 - $900 new. If you really want to get the most out of it send it to TRL for mods and it will come back as great transport and a much better CD burner than the stock unit. I use mine as a transport for my DAC and as a music storage drive for digital files I transfer from my DAT or computer. It's better than the HHB in my opinion, but that is another good option.