binding posts

You need to remove the metal plates if you biwire or biamp. You only need the plates if you run one set of wires into the speakers. Also, not only do you defeat the purpose of running the speaker bi- if you don't remove them, you can damage the speakers.

Also, not only do you defeat the purpose of running the speaker bi- if you don't remove them, you can damage the speakers.

Only if you cross wire them. 

You can run just 1 pair of speaker cables , but you need a jumper still

those metal plates are trash usually holdover cheap brass , a good set of jumpers 

just buy 2 ft of decent ofc copper awg 12, and just buy some spades or bananas 

you can get Cardas, or vampire gold copper , or WBT, orFurutech for a lot more monies  and sounds much better then the cheap jumper plates.

If you stay with single speaker cables, connect them to the binding posts for the midrange/tweeter driver(s), for the (I hope) obvious reason.

@audioman58  

If I'm bi wiring or bi amping why would I want jumper leads?

@mazian I think if you’re bi-wiring (2 sets of speaker cables, one amp) or bi- amping (2 sets of speaker cables, two amps) you’re right, you don’t need jumpers. 
 

That said, I had good luck to my ears replacing my stock brass plates (~$4K pair of speakers) with quality jumpers (one amp, one set of speaker cables plus one set of jumpers). Ymmv.

In short answer to your question, definitely remove the brass plates if you’re bi-wiring or bi-amping. 

One thing more to mention , myself and others who are Audio-Electronics techs 

have measured quality of connectors ,did you know over 80%/ use lower quality Loudspeaker terminals Loudspeakers ,as well asAmplifiers they use gold plated brass , which is brighter , and 3x more resistance, as as as that in lower conductivity. Just look up the metals  index Silver around a 67, Copper 65,brass 22.

I have changed all connections to WBT ,or Furutech throughout my Audio system 

which is a Big difference in fidelity ,this too includes Rca , and very  overlooked 

The IEC input most use cheap $3 inputs when the Furutech are retail $30 gold over Copper ,not zinc,brass then tinned ,meaning you are creating 3x+ more resistance 

which = distortion before you even start x the 2-3- or 4 components in your Audio chain . In Audio Everything counts !   This is where you start ,and BTW  these biwire setups on speakers most are Fake , true bywire the wire from theXover goes to the topend-mids and lower terminal Bass  if you just unscrew the plate you can see , most have all wires soldered together inside which is more a marketing ploy then a true Bywire setup.  And the metal terminal connectors on the majority hurt resolution ,much better to have true jumpers wires with quality connectors .

i was selling them for awhile but most people don’t want to spend the extra $$ for top quality -Everything in the chain is cumulative ,keep this in mind .i have been anAudiophile over 40 years have been modding speakers for years and owned a Audio store for a decade,  trial and error ,and many good techs have help me ,these are tips more then anything else, It’s your gear to do as you wish !!

It is easy to experiment with jumpers  even cheap Home Depot wire just to see if you hear any differences.  While you may get a slightly better sound by experimenting, you would be better off finding the right speaker cable for your system.

Happy Listening.

@itsjustme 

 You have to remove the jumpers if you're using more than one amp but, you can use one amp for each speaker, it called vertical bi- amping.

Vertical bi-amping huh.

Ok, ok it can be called whatever you want. You can call it a buffalo.  but its just a regular stereo amp in two mono boxes.  So there is no technical difference from normal amps.  If you use the two channels in parallel ... well, there are issues with that that i would avoid.  Too complex to go into. Actually just read what i wrote above and turn it down from 11 to 2.

Any kind of bi- amping is a waste of time without a line level crossover. 

Excuse my ignorance but what is a line level crossover?

A line level crossover is a crossover (usually active meaning it is plugged into a power source) that is connected between the preamp and amp and splits the signal there instead of the crossover inside the speakers, it also matches the different levels that two or more different amps may have, then each amp only has to amplify the frequencies sent to it.

i will partially disagree that bi-amping is a WOT without a crossover before the amps.  Most midranges and tweeters require modest power, but that's where all the delicacy resides.  Its much harder to reproduce a ~20,000 Hz complex wave than a ~20 Hz complex wave (~ since complex and one freuqency are contradictory). They can be served well by modestly powered, sweet sounding amps. Tubes if you like.  or a nice class-A amp.

OTOH low frequencies demand low output impedance, and high power.  Delicacy on a large, low-Fr wave is somewhat irrelevant.  So a honkin big solid state power amp is ideal.

Doing that - even when using the internal crossovers can be useful. Admittedly i have amps coming out my ears ( i design them, and years ago made them) and even i don't bother.

I do agree that a crossover between the pre and the two amps, along with control of gain, is better still.

G