Brass screw tweak, seen in Virtual Dynamics video.

Personally, I would not hack the "F" out of my speakers in attempt to "possibly" find a sonic gain. Once you drill those cabinets you can't go back. When it comes to speakers, the cabinets is what you pay big bucks for. Please no follow ups on the where money is spent when manufacturing speakers with regards to drivers vs. cabinets.

Late replying, but I have been bust @ work......
For the record, I have ordered a set of brass wood screws to try first, and a set of brass metric machine screws and inserts.
First, I will try the wood screws, and at a later date, if there is room in the cabinet, the inserts (I want to try this as I am considering Bybees, and Quicksilver Gold contact treatment on spade connectors to all drivers, and do not want to damage the cabinets with excessive removal and install of the drivers.)

I'll have to try for myself. I will post my findings, but it will take a while. We are renovating, and will not have system back together for some time.

For the record, I have receiver four private emails from members who do not want to post on the thread, all claiming to have tried the brass screws, and all claim positive effects.

I used "brass" screws instead of the oh so typical steel bolts that we are all so accustomed to seeing on Mrs Frankensteins neck, on my wife...and I must admit, her shrieks were almost tolerable. NOW THATS A TWEAK!!!

I wonder how fantastic your system has to be for you to notice the difference using this tweak.

Definitely important on mounting air core inductors where screws are close to the coil.

I have my doubts whether a tweeter would be affected audibly from the screws on the front mounting plate. I guess you never know.

Kirkus I got the same from the video only reason I tried was customers keep asking about it. Like I said I could not hear or measure any difference.

I wonder how fantastic your system has to be for you to notice the difference using this tweak.

I would love to see the previous points raised debated.

Swapping brass for steel especially around tweeter domes and the mounting frames is very obvious. Same can be said for mounting hardware around the crossover and circuit boards. Tom

I tried to watch the episode on electromagneteic interference, and was so disgusted with the "science" presented that I simply couldn't stomach it . . . the person in the video demonstrated a complete ignorance of some of the basic physics of electromagnetism, including:

- not understanding the difference between actually shielding a magnetic field, and simply shorting out the eddy current it creates

- trying to discuss the electromagnetic field created by (current flowing in) a single conductor (i.e., no return path). What next, the sound of one hand clapping?

- not understanding the effect of the twisted-pair geometry on his sacrificial ("other brands") cables, and the effect this will have on radiation of (and suceptibility to) electromagnetic fields

- (and my favorite) - implying that the aluminimum (!) foil wrap in his cables is an effective shield against a magnetic field (magnetic shields cannot be non-ferrous!)

After his introduction, I was honestly expecting for him to show us a cable ensconsed in some sort of flexible high-permability metal conduit . . . that is, actual magnetic shielding! But instead, I got a "science lesson" that makes an episode of Mythbusters look like Newton's Principia.

Have had customers request non ferrous I have not heard or measured any difference in sound quality for the better using non ferrous fasteners. I had loudspeakers that where the same except one pair had non ferrous fasteners. Tried it on a few different designs. Still I will experiment more with this.

Have used brass screws and inserts for 10 years or more. Non ferrous materials and brass in particular sounds better. Brass is the metal of music. Tom

You try it and let us know if you get the results that he mentions in the video.