I haven’t done these speakers but have done others. Here is my guideline. If Erik Squires were here he has done more and has more cautions to add. I assumed the OEM designed a good crossover with the right frequency cutoffs but just didn’t use great components (because that is the dirty little secret of most speakers under $50-100K, they don’t use great components.). So I ordered components of the same values and wired them up identically.
I upgraded capacitors to the best Mundorf that I could afford--The EVO silver-gold-oil are excellent.
For the midrange and tweeter circuits of the crossover, I used Duelund Cast PIO bypass caps. I used .1uF, not the .01 that is often used. edit to add: your original crossover probably doesn't even have bypass caps.
For inductors I ordered custom copper foil beeswax from Jantzen. These are huge, heavy and expensive but worth it.
For resistors I used path audio in the treble and mid circuit. for the bass I needed more watts so I used a 30W Mundorf resistor with heatsink from partsconexion.
The caps are huge, the inductors are huge, and the resistors aren’t small so it became too hard to fit it all inside the speakers and I moved it outside. I built walnut boxes with plexiglass tops so nerds like me could appreciate the components and it turned out well. More importantly, it made a huge improvement in the sound quality.
Jerry