The problem is you now have a cheap alps pot and a second set of interconnects in the circuit. You are definitely changing the sound, but if you are ok with that, fine. It’s not a novel idea, it’s been done many times. But remember, the volume control of a preamp is one of, if not the most, important part of the design. You don’t want to cheap out on that.
How do you add remote control to a preamp, here's how.
I purchased a new passive preamp on ebay (made in China) for little over a hundred dollars and.It looks very well built. There is absolutely no gain from input to output. The only thing in the signal path is an Alps volume pot and it is remote controlled. It has four quality inputs and one pair of outputs. I connected my sources to the passive preamp inputs and the pair of outputs to one of the inputs of the non remote preamp. Adjusted the volume halfway on the non-remote preamp. Wella, the remote now controls the volume and input selection via the passive preamp and it sounds marvelous.
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ozzy62, you make a good point. however, the parts used including the RCA inputs, the Alps pot, are imported from Japan, at least that's what the manufacturer states. But I'm listening very carefully to the results and my initial impressions are positive. But is the overall sound quality maintained by the active preamp, time will tell. If there is a slight degradation of sound then that could be the trade off by having the convenience of remote control through a passive preamp. But so far so good. No this is not a new idea but a reminder how this could be done. |
You could use the preamp’s tape loop, or processor loop if it has one: then you can select inputs on the preamp, use the preamp’s features, simply use the new device as remote attenuation, and you can instantly compare: listen with it in-line via the tape loop, or listen to any source without it. Many years, many setups, various components, my friend’s and I cannot detect it ’in’ or ’out’, it just adds it’s features! I use my Chase Remote Line Controller RLC-1 differently in 3 systems. new Chase RLC-1, $125. OBO (must have the remote control) (4 inputs, two identical outputs, remote volume/balance/mute. for very low volume listening it has fletcher-munson bass boost progressively engaged. This is what keeps very low level listening involving enough for me. It has remote treble and bass which I never use, but might solve a problem. 1. main: chase is remote power, remote volume, remote balance: remote mute: still using McIntosh Tube Tuner/Preamp for source selection, it’s vol at 12 o’clock, and leaving Cayin Integrated Amp volume at 12 o’clock, Chase Output to Cayin’s ’turn on default’ CD input. remote balance from your listening position is terrific, a small tweak often makes a large difference. 2. office: no signal, I simply use the chase for remote power of it’s switched power outlet (so I can locate my Luxman 10 wpc tube integrated inconveniently). Luxman has remote volume, and I walk over to use it’s manual input and manual balance when needed 3. garage/shop system: optional use via the tape monitor loop of my Yamaha Receiver, so I have remote volume, importantly remote mute while working on projects. ....................................... remote power note: start with a separate circuit or two Office, to use Chase for remote power of everything: I plug my Furman P1800 into my Chase Switched Outlet, then all components plug into the Furman, the Integrated Amp via it’s designated outlet in the Furman. After the Chase, the Furman’s Capacitors are charged, with it’s 45amp peak reserve Furman P-1800 PF R version, B&H $490. usually on sale somewhere btw, the Furman is rated at 15 amps, so if a big savings, a 15 amp sep ckt is enough, no need to pay for 20 amp unless ...... your beast(s) |
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