How do you add remote control to a preamp, here's how.

The problem is you now have a cheap alps pot and a second set of interconnects in the circuit. You are definitely changing the sound, but if you are ok with that, fine. It’s not a novel idea, it’s been done many times. But remember, the volume control of a preamp is one of, if not the most, important part of the design. You don’t want to cheap out on that.

ozzy62, you make a good point. however, the parts used including the RCA inputs, the Alps pot, are imported from Japan, at least that's what the manufacturer states. But I'm listening very carefully to the results and my initial impressions are positive. But is the overall sound quality maintained by the active preamp, time will tell. If there is a slight degradation of sound then that could be the trade off by having the convenience of remote control through a passive preamp. But so far so good. No this is not a new idea but a reminder how this could be done.

If you like it, that's all that matters. But compare two passive preamps, one using an ALPS pot and the other using this high quality khozmo ladder type volume control. There will be a distinct difference.

Khozmo 64 step ladder attenuator

I do a similar thing with a Schiit Kara. It's volume control is a resistor ladder so no pot. Wherever I set the volume it's just adding a couple of resistors to the path. 

You could use the preamp’s tape loop, or processor loop if it has one:

then you can select inputs on the preamp, use the preamp’s features, simply use the new device as remote attenuation, and you can instantly compare: listen with it in-line via the tape loop, or listen to any source without it.

Many years, many setups, various components, my friend’s and I cannot detect it ’in’ or ’out’, it just adds it’s features!

I use my Chase Remote Line Controller RLC-1 differently in 3 systems.

new Chase RLC-1, $125. OBO (must have the remote control)

(4 inputs, two identical outputs, remote volume/balance/mute. for very low volume listening it has fletcher-munson bass boost progressively engaged. This is what keeps very low level listening involving enough for me. It has remote treble and bass which I never use, but might solve a problem.

1. main: chase is remote power, remote volume, remote balance: remote mute: still using McIntosh Tube Tuner/Preamp for source selection, it’s vol at 12 o’clock, and leaving Cayin Integrated Amp volume at 12 o’clock, Chase Output to Cayin’s ’turn on default’ CD input. remote balance from your listening position is terrific, a small tweak often makes a large difference.

2. office: no signal, I simply use the chase for remote power of it’s switched power outlet (so I can locate my Luxman 10 wpc tube integrated inconveniently). Luxman has remote volume, and I walk over to use it’s manual input and manual balance when needed

3. garage/shop system: optional use via the tape monitor loop of my Yamaha Receiver, so I have remote volume, importantly remote mute while working on projects.

.......................................

remote power note:

start with a separate circuit or two

Office, to use Chase for remote power of everything:

I plug my Furman P1800 into my Chase Switched Outlet, then all components plug into the Furman, the Integrated Amp via it’s designated outlet in the Furman. After the Chase, the Furman’s Capacitors are charged, with it’s 45amp peak reserve

Furman P-1800 PF R version, B&H $490. usually on sale somewhere

Furman Website

btw, the Furman is rated at 15 amps, so if a big savings, a 15 amp sep ckt is enough, no need to pay for 20 amp unless ...... your beast(s) 

elliottbnewcombjr, I wish it was that simple, no tape loop or processor loop. Bare bones CJ ss preamp, I'm lucky it has its own volume control.

@phd 

Do you absolutely need gain in your system? Many people think they do, but that's not the case.

Mashiff, I think you are on track. I will eventually try the resister ladder volume control. Who knows I might be pleasantly surprised!

I think Schiit just came out with a new preamp with similar features at half the price. 

Mashif, interesting!

@phd 

Do you absolutely need gain in your system? Many people think they do, but that's not the case.

Perhaps you didn't see this question?

why do you need the second preamp? why not run the passive directly to your amp?

why do you need the second preamp? why not run the passive directly to your amp?

@glennewdick 

That's the point I was trying to make above. Unless he absolutely needs the gain, a high quality passive (not the cheap one he bought) will be much better.

The benefit of a passive preamp is contingent on impedance matching. We have a situation here where the OP has an Alps pot in the passive unit, the value of which is unknown, but what we do know is that it presents an input impedance to his sources and it has an output impedance that varies based on the position of the pot. Then we have an active preamp as a follower which presents an impedance to the passive. Throw in the capacitance of the cabling and you have a pretty complex arrangement. I have seen situations where people wanted to use a passive as a remote and the Placette passive remote was one of the best to accomplish this. In those situations the passive remote was after the active preamp. The volume control of the active preamp was also set wide open, essentially taking it out of the equation. If you're going to use a combination of active and passive preamps this would be the way I would do it. However, as mentioned already, the OP should ditch the active and simplify the chain by just using the passive preamp. Assuming again that the impedancees matches up.

ozzy62, I had a passing thought of hooking up the passive preamp directly to my amp and see what happens. I'm going ahead and do that and I will report back on the results. Hopefully there will be enough gain to satisfy me. I have some doubts though considering it is a CJ solid state amp and their matching preamps have a higher gain to drive it.

Clio09 posted : " I have seen situations where people wanted to use a passive as a remote and the Placette passive remote was one of the best to accomplish this."

I could not agree more.  The Placette uses Vishay resistors with very tight tolerances to control volume and I have found it to be sonically invisible in my system.  A bit pricey but a worthwhile investment in my opinion.  Since the entire signal runs through it, it is not a place to go on the cheap !

I don't think the Schiit Saga passive can be beat for transparency...looks like they ditched the tube with the latest model.

With the relay stepped ladder volume control, you get perfect channel matching and no noise or distortion. It's as transparent as an RCA cable :-)  

The points above are well taken to get a better passive but I wanted to try this route to make sure this will basically work for me and with the excellent recommendations above I'm going to look into a better passive. But I will need at least three inputs and of course a remote.

Another feature of the Schiit Kara is the output impedance is the same in active and passive modes. 

I don't like the idea of multiple preamps.  You can only harm the sound here. If you have to have remote volume control, I suggest it is better to get a preamp that has it.  

I have a Luminous Audio axiom. Don't use it a lot but Tim Stinson's little boxes are great examples of "less is more".  Available with a remote. However, the base unit like mine is pretty much invisible when it's in the signal path. When you pop the cover, there's nothing there and Tim claims it totally different from 90% of the passives on the market. Something about "volume is adjusted by shunting your amp's input to ground via our volume control to ground and allowing the signal to flow into the amp by a "valve like" circuit". I got no clue what that means but it does work nice.

jji666, the preamp is one of the most important pieces in the audio chain as you would agree. I really like the combination of my CJ preamp to my CJ amp, a lot of synergy Plus I'm not going to spend a great deal of money to get another CJ preamp with remote. So, I'm looking into the passive preamps that inflict the least amount of damage to the sound.

dancub, luminous Audio axiom has circuitry for remote control operation, correct? Also don't they require to know what the input impedance is for your power amp so they can configure the axiom properly to match and drive it successfully?

This is the passive linestage that I would highly recommend.

Hattor Audio “The Big”

just hire somebody to turn the knob

Ozzy62, I want to look into that one as well.

pennfootball71 if you want to make some extra cash, you could hold the knob and I'll turn the preamp. Or just get a remote and be done.

clio09, I never thought of putting the passive after the active preamp and then turning the volume wide open on the active preamp. I want to know if this could cause damage to any of the components involved.  Also, in this scenario what preamp do you connect the sources to, the active or passive preamp?

@phd You would connect the sources to the active preamp. Depending on how much gain your active preamp has you may not be able to run it with the volume control wide open. Best to start with the volume control at 10 o'clock, then see how much you need to turn up the switch on the passive to get to your normal listening level. Then incrementally increase the volume on the active and decrease it on the passive.

I run my actives into my passive. One preamp I can run wide open with no audible distortion and use the passive volume control. The other has a remote but has too much gain to run wide open without distortion. If I'm playing a complete album I run the passive wide open and set the level with the active preamp. But if I'm listening to a playlist with varying levels, I set the passive to about 2 o'clock which makes the active preamp less sensitive to volume changes and easier to set. Otherwise every click of the remote changes the volume too much.