How to choose an upgraded tonearm.

"I’m wondering if that arm you suggest will fit on the VPI Classic 2’s tonearm platform."

skyscraper- I would confirm with the VPI staff what your options are outside of the gimbal.

Contact the audimods to see if they do have customers with  such transplants. 

VPI gimbal is the best way to go. Keeps the table's integrity should you later to decide to get rid of it. Aftermarket arms you do find will require some hacking of the base to a degree.  It's now compromising resale value. Once molested, no going back.

As mentioned by a few, you're still good to go with the stock arm. If you didn't get the bug regarding its "absolute" technical shortcomings, you would be enjoying that great cart, thinking it's the best thing since sliced bread.

VPI dual pivot seems to get approval overall from users. It does look very low tech/crude-a simple clamp with a divot sliding on plastic film? That is not a "pivot"

I apologize for raining on the Mijostyn parade, but in this video, where the narrator is trying to demonstrate the importance of having the pivot located at the level of the LP surface (minutes 20-25 or so), he is really comparing the condition "headshell parallel to LP surface" to the condition "headshell raised at the rear".  The question is why is there an advantage to locating the pivot at the level of the LP surface for any given orientation of the headshell when viewed from the side.  Since most of the time we start out adjusting VTA such that the headshell is parallel to the LP surface, I take that as the norm. The video shows that raising the pivot at the rear such that the headshell is likewise raised at its rear will result in increased susceptibility to warp wow.  I have no problem with that, but that was not the question. I wouldn't ignore an otherwise excellent tonearm just because it may fail this one criterion.

@skyscraper 

Tell us what you do and how it works out. You have piqued my interest. While, I said, not something I would do… interested in the outcome.

Raul. you’re right there is a lot to learn, and the resources to learn are severely limited here. I’m out in the countryside with not even a high end dealer within several hours drive. But I do have an interest in trying to make at least a better informed decision than a shot in the dark. So I have at my disposal the internet, books and magazines to try and source information. You’re also correct that it’s hard to separate the wheat from the chaff with anything you read online.

I wouldn’t know anything at all about stereo equipment except it’s been a hobby of mine since the 1970’s, like many of the readers here.. I used to subscribe to three audio magazines back then and checked out stereo equipment stores which were plentiful in those days. Even went to a New York Audio Society meeting once. But that’s it. I’m not expecting to become an audio engineer any time soon. If I ever travel down near you though, I’ll stop by, pick your brain, and you can show me a few things. Until then Vaya con Dios mi amigo, hope that translates okay. Thanks for your advice.

Tablejockey and ghdprentice, I will be going at least for a few years with the stock JMW arm and a dual pivot mod. Might not be perfect, but should be pretty good. I was reading up today on the reportedly overly expensive VPI Fatboys since they should fit the current base. i’m not going to customize the turntable unless it’s truly a minor thing to do.

So maybe an eventual upgrade to a second hand gimballed Fatboy might be the only practical option.. It is frustrating to know that there are better tonearms out there in that price range, that won’t fit the VPI tonearm’s base. Resale however is not a concern. I plan on being entombed with the VPI Classic 2 and the rest of my newly purchased equipment, just like the Egyptian pharaohs used to be with their valuables.

I also plan on spending my remaining savings on traveling to foreign lands, beautiful French women, oil paintings and constructing a woodworking shop. That takes in everything from the ethereal to the mundane. No more stereo equipment though.

Lewm. I hope you know I was joking with you,. There are a lot of things to consider. and I will keep in mind the points you make. Maybe one day I’ll figure all this out. Take care,

Mike

Whatever you buy, make sure that it's adjustable. That is: VTA, VTF, azimuth, anti-skating (if applicable).

If you're prepared to accept a little quirkiness, you can take advantage of the greatest bargain in high end: the Trans-Fi Terminator, an air bearing linear tracker. Actually, that's air horizontally and a mechanical pivot vertically. Direct from the manufacturer, on the net.

Performs on the level of anything costing less than a new car. I use two: one with a Nottingham Analog upgraded to near Dais specification running a Miyajima Zero, and a DIY air bearing unit running a higher end Koetsu. Bonus: they are perfect for modifying and tweaking, which you need to do if running low compliance MC cartridges like these.