Rap- There is hole for an allen head set screw on the right side of the plinth. The set screw loosens the arm for VTA or removal. Take the appropriate sized allen wrench, loosen the screw a couple of turns and gently pull the arm up out of it's hole.
There are a couple of screws holding the connector bracket on the rear of the plinth. Unscrew those and the bracket stays with the arm. (You probably need to do this first before removing the arm.)
Blot up the fluids with a paper towel or clean rag. As I recall, rubbing alcohol with clean up any residue.
Refer to your owner's manual for details. If you don't have one, I might be able to dig mine up and fax it to you. |
Hello Jimbo3,
Thank you so much for you kind offer, sincerely.
I do have the manual but it never says anything about removing the fluid.
I am assuming the same goes for the bearing lubricant as well? Pour it out or use a damp cloth to soak it off?
The wiring from the tonearm, do I have to unsolder it?
Thanks
Rapogee |
Rap- Yes, you're on the right track with pouring out as much as you can, then wiping out as much as possible with a paper towel, then clean up the residue with either rubbing alcohol or denatured. (Can't remember which- let me check on that for you.)
DO NOT UN-SOLDER THE TONEARM LEADS FROM THE CONNECTION BRACKET. Once again, remove the two screws and the bracket will come away from the plinth. The bracket, leads and arm are one assembly. |
Jimbo3,
Thank you kindly!
One more thing!
The attachment in the cup of the tonearm,(microfilament/fishing string) to the base -white ring which resides in the cup..........leave it in the cup when I get the fluid out correct?
What about the lubricant for the platter, same as well?
Thanks
Rapogee |
Rap- Yes, leave it in the cup. You'll need to stuff the cup with packing material to keep the disc in place. Pack the arm carfully so that it doesn't put any strain on the string.
Also, the manual says rubbing alcohol to clean up the fluids.
Good Luck!
Jim
|
If you have any other questions regarding your table, email Stanalog Imports which now owns and distributes you table. |
Just purchase an Ariston dc40 turntable and it needs to be refurbish. i would like some help to indentify some good repair shop. most of all some help to dismantle the unit for shipping. This is my first high end turntable all suggestion are welcome. |
jimbo3 said 20 years ago that there is There is hole for an allen head set screw on the right side of the plinth. The set screw loosens the arm for VTA or removal. Take the appropriate sized allen wrench, loosen the screw a couple of turns and gently pull the arm up out of it's hole.
I cannot find any hole on the right side of the plinth...?
I want to give a try with the arm on my LP12...
|
The hole is of course directly under the tonearm pivot. Nice right rear of plinth
|
I just went through part of this operation when I changed plinths on my LP12. The WTA arm is a royal pain to work with. Getting the silicone out of the cup was an exercise in frustration, as not all will be removed from the cup, leaving a nice mess. I did it with a syringe used to baste with, but it is not easy. The silicone liquid will spill everywhere, and it is a pain to clean up. This, IMO, is one of the biggest issues with ownership of the WTA. If I could source an arm that was more interesting sonically on the LP12, for a reasonable price, the WTA would be gone, because of this sole issue~
If you do mount your WTA on the LP12, I think you will be pleasantly surprised how great it sounds...and works with the old fruit box.
|
I used to hear the WT Reference tonearm in my friend’s WT Reference TT, many times. Eventually, when he was finally suffering from dementia, I had to help him install a new cartridge, which caused me to have to fuss with that screw under the base of the TT to move the tonearm to adjust P2S and also I separately adjusted azimuth for the new cartridge. The downstream equipment was Berning ZOTL amplifiers driving Acoustat full range ESLs, so not too shabby. My overall impression was that the tonearm made every LP sound "good" but not real, kind of homogenized. In trying to set it up, I noted that it changed azimuth as the stylus traversed the surface of the LP; it would slightly roll over, counter-clockwise. Overdamped, I think accounted for the SQ. I did not come away with the determination that I would go to any great lengths to keep that tonearm in service, but obviously others feel differently. And it's possible that the TT itself contributed to the coloration. I do respect that.
|
@lewm My ’WTA’ Black arm replaced my older Ekos 2. The improvement in sound staging, particularly the sense of depth was very noticeable. The only arm that might...might be better on the LP12 is an Ekos SE, but even that is not a 100%. I have done an ’AB’ with the WTA against the Ekos-SE, same components except for arm cabling. The WTA was using Nordost Tyr phono cabling, while the Ekos-SE used the stock Linn T Kable.. The results was that the Ekos-SE has slightly more bottom end reach, but the WTA was still the soundstaging champ. The Ekos-Se was a lot easier to set up..and keeps it set up way better, but cannot adjust azimuth, which I think is a failing of the arm.
|
My dear now departed friend might have replenished the damping fluid in his WT Reference arm with something having a higher viscosity rating than the original, which certainly could account for its overdamped sonics. He wasn't sure what he put in there. This was a guy who was a mechanical engineer and who taught me a lot about audio; it was very sad when he started to fail mentally, and I miss him to this day. But the unstable azimuth would seem to be a consequence of its basic design.
|
Thank you lewm for your answer:
The hole is of course directly under the tonearm pivot. Nice right rear of plinth
;-)
I guess somethink like a spacer is needed to adapt the WT Classic tone arm on the LP12 with a Greenstreet Keel_Klone sub chassis for Ittock or Ekos arm?
|
the reason is the WT arm's shaft has a thinner diameter than the Linn Ekos tone arm...
|
