Need Advice on Subwoofer Selection

You should understand that most all the recordings you own went through post production mixing where subwoofers were used. While there are a very few passive full range speakers they all have the inability to provide the increase or decrease in low frequency gain their environment may require.

The audiophile credo against the use of subwoofers was clearly born out of the inability to properly integrate subwoofers with main speakers. Today there are many forms of digital signal processing and a few analog processing of low frequencies that make this once complicated integration quite seamless and easy.

Even the most fundamental subwoofers (crossover, gain, and phase) can be controlled by outboard components and firmware. Some offer very involved manual Room Optimization that can be adjusted in multiple ways so one can alter the equalization with one touch of the remote at the listening position. Most recordings will benefit from a simple reversal of phase.

Keep in mind what ever is said here regarding subwoofer characteristics is completely dependent on rooms equalization and the interaction.

Hi there,can I ask,can I use a normal interconnect to connect to the sub from the pre.Im thinking the same way as Rathmullen,thankyou,Im new to subs.Currently im using kef ls50 monitors,and thinking of a kef r400b sub,cheers

I had a change to listen to TBI Magellan bass module twice with two different system in two different place and timing period. The Magellan bass module was not a "house saking" kind of sub. It was a really fast sub. Bass was so clean and punchy. It blended so well with the main (Maggie 3.5 and Totem Forest). My other two friends and I hardly noticed the bass module present in played. If your goal is want to add just a bit of more punch and weight to lower region for your system in a very compact enclosure (as small as your amp) at a very decent price then the TBI Magellan VIII just might fit the bill.

TBImagellanbassmodule

FYI, I am not affiliated with TBI bass module. In fact my dual subs are Rythmik F15hp (excellent subs but a lot bigger in size)

I say regrettably because I've always felt that subwoofers were an ersatz way of achieving full range sound quality and that a properly designed 2 or 3 way speaker in the appropriate room should provide more than adequate bass.

I think a separate sub is actually a smarter way to get full range sound. When all drivers share the same cabinet, low bass output is at cross purposes with the rest of the speaker's range. The bass waves are so large it is difficult to control cabinet resonances and keep those large backwaves from affecting the excursions of the other drivers. It also is the main reason for increased cabinet size, extensive bracing and higher cost. It also tends to necessitate a bigger front baffle, which compromises imaging and soundstage (there are exceptions of course).

Separate powered subwoofers make speaker placement easier as you can place the primary speakers for best tonal balance, imaging, and soundstage, and then place the sub(s) for flattest and most extended bass response. Powered subs also enable you to adjust volume and phase for best blend and overall response. Just because the single-cabinet full-range speaker came first doesn't mean it's the best overall solution. You may also get cleaner sound because the bass waves are generated from a separate cabinet and are powered by a separate amplifier.

For recommendations, I was really impressed with B&W's PV1D. I heard it with a pair of their PM1 minis, and the sound was seamlessly integrated. That's a really good sub and list price is $1500 (I think).

You maximum budget would also allow the JL Fathom F110. Fathoms have a really fast rise time and also integrate well with speakers of all sizes.

I've heard the PV1D with mini-monitors and the Fathom F212 with a pair of Magnepan 20.1s and in both cases the bass was seamlessly integrated with the mains and there was no discontinuity between the subs and the mains in transient response or timbre. They also have excellent extension.

Give a Ken Kresiel DXD808 a listen, it has the foot print your looking for and at under 2K, it has dual 8" drivers in push pull configuration with 375 watt mono blocks for each speaker and extension down to 10hz. I own its bigger brother the DXD12012 and its the accurate lowest distortion sub I've heard and the reviews say the same.

I'm using a pair of MJ Acoustics ref200 with synergistic ref speakon and subwoofer rca cables with WB Arcs with very good results. It also has a remote control with four presets which simplifies adjustments when needed. You can also use the speakon high level and low level rca simultaneously for better tuning as each has its own crossover and volume setting.

You can buy a pair of Gallo TR1D's for 1200.00. They have a small foot print and a small face profile since they are round. They are super easy to set up and just plain kill my previous REL sub.
I'm using speaker level inputs and run my mains full range. The TR1D produce bass when called for and never sound heavy or slow. They will follow a bass line like a bloodhound.

I recommend REL sub, hi-level connection obviously. I used Velodyne sub but was not happy with it in stereo, great for HT though. I had quality issue with it also. Rel is more musical, probably one of the most "music friendly" subs, easy to integrate with a system.
Your Proac 2.5 or 38 would benefit from a sub as well. Sub in a system is not only deeper, tighter bass but improved soundstage, more open, more "air", more micro detail.
You have to set the crossover properly, most people set it to high.