Agree with Lewm, the DP80 is a fantastic machine. The rebuild of the electronic circuit is relatively simple, have done a dozen or more in the past year or so. Some time ago i posted a video showing the speed accuracy of the DP80 playing an entire LP side, 17minutes plus there are few tables that can perform in this class. https://www.facebook.com/170947997876/videos/10154978712417877/https://www.facebook.com/170947997876/videos/10154978713202877/The videos show a DP 80 fitted with a time line a device that emits a laser pulse at incredibly precise intervals projecting a dot on the wall in the room the table is in - in this video the wall the dot is projected on is 26 feet away from the table - over 17 minutes the dot moves forward with just a few inches - if theres any calculous geniuses out there try to calculate this accuracy in percentages it is WELL below specified accuracy. Good Listening Peter |
One other thing is being overlooked here. For a period of time I owned both an SP10 Mk2 and my DP80. I had both of them serviced by Bill Thalmann at Musical Technologies in Springfield, VA. (It's only about a 25 minute drive from my house in Bethesda, MD.) On the DP80, I needed a new controller chip to make it run perfectly (which I was able to source via Alibaba), and Bill noted that the circuit uses some transistors that were over time shown to be unreliable. He replaced all of the suspect transistors with modern superior equivalents, and he installed the new controller chip. Bill also re-capped both units. I mounted both turntables in slate plinths of similar weight and shape. In this setting, with both turntables feeding the very same system, front to back, the DP80 consistently outperformed the SP10 Mk2. (Not by much, just a hair.) Bill also remarked to me that the drive system of the DP80 seemed a little more advanced than that of the MK2. The DP80 uses a true 3-phase AC synchronous motor, for one thing. I know there are further tweaks for the Mk2 (I've done them all, JP's chip and Krebs mod, for my SP10 Mk3), but, as it was, I consistently preferred the DP80. That is one great and under-rated turntable, a steal at current market values in my opinion. It's worth the cost and effort to have a competent tech evaluate the running condition and then bring it up to spec, any time you buy a "new" vintage DD turntable.
|
Lewm I have tried coper mats on the DP80 and the springs (thin metal bands) are not sturdy enough to carry the copper platters unless very thin. Any mat should be not any larger than the inner spring loaded platter - Denon's original Rubber mat supplied with the DP 80 is. I've uploaded a few pictures on my systems page showing the detail. https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/6431Good Listening Peter |
I own a Dp80. It is perhaps too simple to say that the platter is spring loaded. The platter is two concentric pieces,an inner piece that is about the size of the record label or a little wider in diameter, and an outer which goes all the way out to the periphery. The inner and outer platters are linked by flexible thin metal fasteners that act sort of like a spring to decouple the two sectors . This was Denon’s way of isolating the platter from the bearing, since the playing surface of the LP is almost entirely supported by the outer platter. So if you used a solid platter mat, like a copper one, the dissociation between the two pieces of the platter would be abrogated. I don’t actually know whether that would be so terrible, because the mat doesn’t couple to the bearing in any case. I would not hesitate to try a copper platter mat or some other solid mat, if that is of interest.
|
Dear chakster, There are shops who make all kinds of stuff from
acrylic. The most use laser cutting. For my former Technics SH-
10 B 4 plinth I ordered 3 arm boards for 3 different arms.
They use acrylic plates which can be glued together for whatever
dimensions. But you need to proved them with schematics. They
cost about 100 euro each. You can use the arm board from
your Denon as example so the only thing you need to do is
provide them with the spindle -hole distance for each tonearm.
|
Thanks for the link, Peter
The lighter mass platter mat (400-900g) would better than 1.8kg Micro ?
|
Thanks for clarifying. From the specs they seem to be identical. I’ve opened them but not side by side. Yes it’s a spring loaded platter. Have been using the copper on it for a good while with no ill effects. |
Genesis, The Motor in the DP75 is considerably smaller in the DP75 and the control system simpler, both are excellent machines. The DP75 and DP80 are not suitable for use with a copper mat as the platters are two layer spring loaded the weight of the copper cause the springs to sag too much. The DP7000 is also a magnificent table - have made many of these into GrooveMaster Vintage Direct DP7 https://pbnaudio.com/pbn-dp7/Lyra in Japan has 5 of these made by us. 3 of them with the SAT tonearm Good Listening Peter |
75 and 80 are essentially the same. Looks exactly the same too except for the switch and knob which you will never use anyways. Just a thought. Other lower models are not worth the effort in my opinion.
Og also put out a nice copper mat on it when you’re done. I had a micro on mine.
|
|
@genesis168 yeah, i know lower models are easy to find, but we're looking for the best only. Bought it out of curiosity, so much has been said about DP-80, i must try it. I'm also an SP-10mkII & SP-20 owner, but main machines in my studio are two PD-444. I don't like belt drive TT at all. My two Victor TT-101 collecting dust in the corner, i'm glad the next vintage DD is Denon DP-80 and i hope i will be able to run it quickly. |
The DP80 is a remarkable turntable. I’ve used one in a secondary system for a while. The sound is between the SP10/2 and belt drives. A good overall compromise. The 75 is easier to source. Basically the exact same as the 80 but without the pitch control and quartz lock defeat switch to which I think is useless. Tell your friend to get a Dp75 and it will be a substantial upgrade to his Pro-Ject. Currently have a DP75 in the DK2300 plinth and a DP80 in a stone plinth.
On on a side note besides the feet, you can fabricate a better armboard out of brass or stainless. A good machine shop will be able to make one for you if you have the original.
|
Great, just ordered my DK-300, so everything must be like this. @genesis168 I also have a local friend who’s asking me for a tunrtable to ugrade his cheap pro-ject belt drive. So maybe this is not the last DP-80 i’ve bought. DK-300 stock plinth is reasonably priced. Acustand plinth for Denon DP-80 is 449 GBP + shipping from UK, looks very nice on the pictures. It’s funny to read about their "original design". I think the smart idea of adjustable PTS armboard has been stolen from Dr.Feickert and the overall plinth also reminds me Feickert plinth. |
Hi fast mick, I also have the DK2300double arm plinth. Too bad it wouldn’t take a 12”. Both the DK300 and the 2300 are really solid and well built. Get the feet changed and take it to the next level! |
HI Chakster,
I have 2 x DP80's one is in a DK2300 ie twin arm version of the the DK300. In is a FR64S and in the 2nd mount a Grace 704. My other turntable has a SME 3010R I prefer the sound of the DK2300 setup.
as Genesis168 says above the feet are very poor , I haven't changed mine yet but its probably a good idea as he says. |
@genesis168
The plinth is solid. Well made but the feet is the weak spot there. Poorly executed. The feet on the DK300 can be upgraded to Stillpoints or equivalent.
I have my AT616 pneumatic feet, so i am well prepared to replace feet under any turntable. It's a good news that stock DK300 plinth is good, maybe i have to buy DK300 first. |
The plinth is solid. Well made but the feet is the weak spot there. Poorly executed. The feet on the DK300 can be upgraded to Stillpoints or equivalent. I was going to do it but it sold before I had the chance to do it. It’s basically a little plastic piece with a threaded stud screwed on to the plinth with small wood screws and the feet screws on to the stud.
|
Nothing wrong with DK300 but I would replace the mdf arm board with brass or aluminum |
Chakster. The stock DK300 is a nice plinth. Constrained layer. I had a DP80 with an FR64s on it. Actually sounded great. Sold it last year to a friend who really wanted it badly. Just picked up another DP80 on a stone plinth. Wondering if there are any other options for nice plinths. |
The stock Dk 300 Denon plinth is bad ? |
Just bought a Denon DP80 and it came with a stone plinth. Cut out and mounting holes look like it’s made for DP80. It’s definitly vintage and most likely aftermarket made for Denon. Wondering what plinth it might be. |
I hasten to add that while the slate plinths I had made are beautiful and professional looking in appearance, I did not try to achieve the boutique look of an OMA plinth, with its logo engraved into the slate. And my tonearm mounts are rather crude although effective. |
I think my slate comes from the same site that supplies OMA, but in any case it's Pennsylvania slate that we both use. The company is Structural Slate in Bala Cynwyd, PA. They cut the slate to my dimensions and honed both sides to make them flat. They do not do water jet cutting. For that I used a company in York, PA. You called it "graphite"; I do not believe the two (graphite vs slate) are the same. I made three plinths using these two companies, one for Lenco, one for DP80, and one for SP10Mk3. Actually, four plinths if you count the first one I made, for SP10Mk2; I sold that along with the Mk2. But that was the learning experience. |
Would be nice, Lew. Which kind of slate you have ?
The OMA digging their graphite in
Pennsylvania |
Mine is in a 2-inch thick piece of slate that I sourced from Pennsylvania in the US. Mine came in a DK300 plinth with a DA301 tonearm, not the 401. I think I have the pdf file needed to program a water jet for creating the hole and the 3 screw bolt holes in slate or other, if you need it,
|
