Tamper Resistant Duplex Outlets

Leviton 5262 SWG 15A TR duplex receptacle.

https://www.leviton.com/en/products/5262-sgw

One example of a good 20A Spec Grade TR duplex receptacle.

Extra heavy duty non plated brass contacts and non plated brass back strap.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5362-SGE-Industrial-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B007ZRL53W?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

https://www.leviton.com/en/products/5362-sgw

Sorry, should have been more clear:

When I write Commercial/Residential , it’s a single grade which combines both. It has the heavy duty build of commercial requirements along with a TR face. They are often stamped "Special Grade."

A standard Commercial outlet won’t have TR features, and a residential outlet with TR won’t be heavy duty.

Commercial/Residential outlets are in the $5 range. More expensive than your average commercial outlet or your average residential. I use these exclusively in my home because I've seen first hand how worn out residential outlets get in 10 years.

The next grade up is, of course, Hospital Grade, which as I mentioned, usually are not TR and you have to hunt for those. Further, a lot of them are 20A outlets which should only be used on 20A circuits, so in a home you may have a little harder search looking for an outlet that combines:

• Hospital Grade
• Tamper Resistante
• Only 15A

To show you how naïve I am, I have never heard of tamper proof outlets. I assumed that any hi end outlet would surely be within codes.

@rocray -  Well, "tamper resistant."  Unfortunately "high end" outlets and plugs are the wild west of regulatory compliance.  Technically, TR is not needed in most businesses but is required for residential spaces.  They are basically "child resistant."

But now i’ve learned that tamper resistant is a code requirement in Oregon (and the Pangea outlet is lacking the "TR" designation for tamper resistant), and my electrician won’t install it for me, so I’m going to return this outlet to Amazon, unused.

@graigvc

Good for him/her. TR is now required for residential outlets in the latest National Electric Code.

Most "hospital grade" outlets are NOT TR.

There’s a couple of cost effective ways to go about this:

• Commercial/Residential outlets. High grade outlets which include TR for $5 and up. Eaton/Leviton
• Hospital grade outlets with TR designation. More expensive than Commercial/Residential

https://amzn.to/3L13IHC

To show you how naïve I am, I have never heard of tamper proof outlets. I assumed that any hi end outlet would surely be within codes. I would look through your home owners insurance policy.  Or,call them and say you are asking for a “friend” 

This is a frustrating situation.  The outlet where my audio equipment is plugged in stopped working, and I bought a Pangea Audio "NEMA 5-20 Premier AC Outlet" in anticipation of an electrician arriving tomorrow.

But now i've learned that tamper resistant is a code requirement in Oregon (and the Pangea outlet is lacking the "TR" designation for tamper resistant), and my electrician won't install it for me, so I'm going to return this outlet to Amazon, unused.

(I realize I could learn some basics of installing an outlet and do it myself, but I'd rather have something like this done "right" by a trusted professional than risk making a rookie mistake where I'll be plugging in my treasured audio gear.)

If anyone has suggestions for a worthwhile upgrade/premium tamper resistant outlet, that I could later have an electrician swap in the future, I'm curious if it's not too expensive.  ($25 for this Pangea seemed reasonable ... not sure >$50 would be worthwhile.)

On the question of what happens when you move....unless you just bought a new home, your house does not have tamper resistant outlets.  There is no requirement to backfit.  It is very unlikely an inspector will conclude that your audio outlet was installed after the requirement was in place.

For the money, and value, I'd suggest an affordable Commercial/Residential outlet over just about any expensive audio grade outlet. 

That way you are meeting code and don't have to worry about what happens when you move.

Hospital Grade is not necessarily Tamper Resistant (TR) but they can be found.

Back stabbed outlets should be removed.  Back wired outlets, which are screw tight, are fine.

It is relatively easy to find combo rated "Commercial/Residential" outlets which are both Tamper Resistant and commercial grade with significantly better construction than your average $1 home outlet.

The NEC doesn't care about Hospital Grade but it does care about Tamper Resistant.  If you ever sell your home not having those TR outlets may be something an inspector catches.

I use Oyaide R1, notice it does not have the backstabbing connections. That's what's illegal.

https://afroaudio.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=14750

@jeffreyw,

Installing a dedicated 20 amp circuit for audio gear. See link below

@carlsbad 

Thanks, will probably have to go that route!!

Hmmm. I just installed my own circuit. ignored the tamper resistant issue. Fyi, most outlets on the shelf at home depot are not yet tamper resistant. I would just let my electrician install the cheapest outlet he offers and then after he leaves, replace it with the high grade outlet that isn't tamper resistant. if you want to fight the fight ask him what he does in a hospital but it is easier to just replace it after he leaves. --Jerry

@ebm 

Tamper-resistant outlets are required in the US as part of the electrical code. Every audiophile outlet company that I have researched does not offer such. Therefore, an electrician can not legally install since they are violating the electrical code. I am having a dedicated 20A outlet installed in the near future. I might have to just go with a robust commercial outlet as suggested.

@jeffreyw,

See link below

I would think that all hospital grade outlets are. 

What do you need that never heard of this.