Technics SP 10 mc II. Worth looking at?

There is a Technics SP 10 mc II with a Micro MA 88 arm for sale and I’m wondering whether it’s worth buying. Due to local lockdowns I can’t view it. It’s  vintage, but if anything is wrong is it reparable, and worth repairing?  Otherwise I’ll keep looking for a Rega or Linn that I can afford 
Strange question, no one can see this particular unit to comment. When you buy vintage you must know everything about condition, my SP-10 mk2 was clean as new, I did not recap it, simply because it was just fine as is. If you want to recap the power supply it’s easy. My advice is to buy it if the cosmetic condition is perfect. I wouldn’t buy anything myself if it’s not in perfect working order. 
These were workhorse machines and the de facto standard of the broadcast industry from the mid' 70's to the end of the lp era. They are highly reliable and repairable. You didn't mention the asking price, but price and condition should determine whether you should get it or not. They are not rare, and you will have other opportunities. I opted for a less than pristine unit at a very attractive price back at the very beginning of its repetitional rehabilitation. I had to have the power supply repaired, but it has served me well for the past 15 years and has been one of my best value purchases. 
@chakster Sorry, I couldn’t figure out how to post an image.  It looks pretty clean.  Are parts still available for these?
You don’t need any parts if it’s a working unit. Re-cap is cheap and those parts available. But if you are buying a working unit do not try to fix it. Few drops of lube is all you need. You have to make sure the rotation is stable at 33,45,78, no damage on the platter, no lift or any mechanical noise under the platter. You can unscrew the power supply to look inside to check there are no caps leakage.

JP Jones has a site, he can fix everything, his passion is SP-10 mk3 which is more complicated than mk2.

The SP-10 mk2 in perfect cosmetic condition is hard to find, I sold mine for $1500 to local friend, it was the best condition I have ever seen, on ebay they are normally scratched or with beaten corners (I don’t like it) from Japan. 

If you can buy a decent unit for low price then definitely go for it, but make sure it’s working unit.
Purchased mine from Australia, completely rebuilt and cosmetically restored, may look better than new. There are plenty of people to work on them if not rebuilt. Personally, I wouldn't  operate one that's never been recapped and calibrated, those electrolytics getting pretty old. Add a good custom made plinth for best performance. All this won't be cheap, but you'll have a very nice table.
Here is mine, never serviced, like new, no problem for over 10 years. The plinth was $700 with international shipping.

** If you need service use Fidelis Analog
Chakster, you're lucky. If one has been in regular service since new there is better chance those caps may survive longer, if purchaser doesn't know service history I'd definitely change out caps. Sitting is not good for electrolytic caps. Regardless, electrolytic capacitors have finite life.
A bit off topic, but looking at JP site now I finally noticed his short article about Technics SP-10R vs. SP-10 mk III - check this out.  
The SP10 mkII is on an online auction and  as we are having a Covid lockdown situation here in Australia I can’t physically check it out. I’m looking to rebuild my system after loosing it all in a house fire. I had a Technics 120 with a SME 3009, and a Shure V-15, as you did in the seventies. I’m pretty sure that the SP 10 mkII would be an upgrade from the Luxman pd290 that I bought for $10. I guess the system is only ever going to be Midfi as I don’t have the funds, my preamp is a Cary slp 03 bought off Audigon and a Cary rocket 88 as a power amp. Following the pretty positive comments about the SP 10 here I think I’ll give it a run for the money, it’s up to about AUS$1000 now and a few more days to go
At present the $1000 value is close to the Tonearm Value if AUS $ is converted to GBP. 

I can see this creeping toward AUS $2000+ if the SP10 is looking in poor
A VGC SP10 can command a high price.

Here is the good new My Own SP10 MkII was a Chassis Only barn find.
I was in need of TLC from an EE who fully understands the SP10 needs and returned to the finest of  Specimens.
The Chassis received a Custom Spray Paint Coating from a Automotive
Custom Spray Paint Specialist.
I chose a colour that the Workshop was working with on a Vehicle and I got the chassis coated for £70.

My SP10 in a Densified Wood Plinth has changed my use of TT's and it is the Model used over other owned DD, Idler Drive and Belt Drive TT's.

If you want to go this route I can put you in touch with fellow Countrymen 
who are working with these Models as their got to projects, and I am sure you will be inspired by them.

@pindac thanks for that. I’m not sure what the plinth is, in the images it looks like a constructed ply base about 4 inches high so a new plinth could be called for.  One site suggested travertine as an option 
If a TT arrives with a Plinth, I would not concern oneself too much about the methods and materials used to produce the structural device.
Much better time will be spent learning how to mount the TT on a support device.
A cheap option will be to go for a Wall Mounted TT Shelve, and then use a Sub Plinth and decide on a few different footer types to isolate the Wall shelf and Sub Plinth and the Sub Plinth and TT Plinth.
Once you are rewarded with the values on offer for the mounting of the TT, any changes made for a Plinth down the line will be benefitted by the mounting system produced, 'well as long as',  it can take the weight of a new plinth design.      
The only "irreplaceable" part is the single IC, MN6042.  JP Jones has developed a replacement part for the MN6042, built from discrete SMD components.  So there is nothing to fear in terms of parts.  His business is called "Fidelis Analog", and you can find it on-line.  If you are buying an aged device, andt you want it to work precisely up to its original specification, it just makes sense to replace all the electrolytic capacitors, unless you can verify that it was recently done by a previous owner.  The OEM capacitors would now be at least 40 years old.  However, there is no need to be concerned about film capacitors; they last "forever" unless their voltage rating has been exceeded in circuit.  In connection with replacing the electrolytics, you can think about having it calibrated as well.  These precautionary service steps should not be expensive.  In the US, one can buy all the needed capacitors for under $20.  If you needed to replace the MN6042 IC, that would cost more; consult JP.  If the tt runs up to speed and is speed stable, chances are you do not need a new IC.
People always overestimate everything on audiogon, it's ridiculous.
As stated earlier in this thread the SP-10 mkII is a broadcast machine, you will not find any "special" sub plinth or "wall mount shelfs" at those broadcast studios. This is a typical broadcast application of an SP-10 mkII. Here is a bit more complicated stuff. And this is a simple home use plinth for earlier version. The original obsidian plinth is here. 

Why people overestimate everything when it comes to plinth? 
Technics in custom made plinth can be placed DIRECTLY on a table or your furniture if they are stable. I made a custom metal table (rack) and put my gear on top, there are small sarbothane pads under the triplex glass and metal table filled with sand. Here is my gear when I owned SP-10 mkII.

Technics SP-10 mkII can be used even nude without plinth if you will put AT-616 pneumatic insulators under the drive. In this case you need a base for tonearm, here is review fo Toho cast iron base. 

Look at this catalog for Toho plinth and base for Technics SP-10 mkII, I doubt you will find it, but it's for inspiration. 

The best way is to make plywood plinth if the one you're buying is not good enough. Will cost you probably $300 (you need a carpenter). 

This new plinth from a high-end plinth manufacturer will cost you probably $10k :))  

The only "irreplaceable" part is the single IC, MN6042. JP Jones has developed a replacement part for the MN6042, built from discrete SMD components. So there is nothing to fear in terms of parts. His business is called "Fidelis Analog", and you can find it on-line.

His chip is for MK 3 ONLY @lewm
I already gave a link to his site earlier in this thread
Most auctions see all the bidding action in the last 2minutes. This whole convo will change in terms of value during that 2 minutes and it will be to late to ask anything then. 
Given your location, shipping for any restoration work is a real cost consideration. As much as I loved my SP10mkII, I'd say this auction purchase has a good amount of risk.
If you really are determined to make a go of it, consider setting up an esnipe account, figure out your max bid ahead of time and let the algorithm do it's thing in the last minute of the auction. Cheers,
You are correct that the chip is not used in the SP 10 mk 2. However it is used in some other Technics direct drive turntables, other than the mk 3. In any case I made an error. Thank you for correction. But this is also an indication that the mk 2 is fairly bulletproof as far as irreplaceable parts.
Finding a SL 1000 MK2 NOS in the year 2021 is almost impossible, I feel happy because I have one that I don’t use due to lack of space.
Currently I have found only aesthetically questionable SP10IIs for sale; if I have to spend 1200/1500$ to then do a recap, a restoration and redo everything with a great waste of time, I prefer to buy one that is already in place, perfect and completely restored for a little more expense without the need to do anything else.
I have restored several as a hobby and now that I have accumulated a lot of experience even if I am elderly next year I will found a company that is dedicated to the complete restoration of turntables; it will be called "perfect restore labs®"
some of my restorations....

the attention to detail and even less apparent details should be noted.... practically perfect.

everything has been renewed, containers and front panels of the power suppy if scratched or damaged

....and on request also with special power cables maintaining the original conditions of the rear panel

I am currently working on this SP 10MK2 A from a dear friend.

A wall shelf with the construction to support the TT being the:
Shelf > Sorothane Hemispheres > Sub Plinth > Adjustable Spikes > TT Plinth.
Is a very affordable Mounting Method, much cheaper than a Quad Set
of AT - 616 footers on a Chassis and a Tone Arm Pod.
I own the AT-616 Footers and in my situation they are superseded by other footers.
When the AT 616 have been used in other configurations in a structure for mounting a TT, they offer almost identical performance as Sorbothane, but when in use, they are height adjustable, so offer useful assistance with levelling as and when required.
I could sell the AT-616 on and use an adjustable footer design that will accommodate Sorbothane and IMV get just as good a performance at a much reduced cost.

As I am from the schooling that works to create a rigidly coupled Interface between the Tonearm and Platter Spindle, I view Standalone Pods as a tool to make experiencing a New Tonearm a simple achievement, but do not see the use of the Pod as a design that enables a rigid coupling, so is not a priority to be used in my own set up.

Within my local HiFi Group I am now as result of Covid Restrictions being lifted, returning to sharing in meetings and listening to a Plinthed SP10R with a Stand Alone Tone Arm Pod and 12" Glanz Arm.
Prior to Covid the SP10R was used without a Plinth on Isolation Footers and is said to be much improved fastened to a Plinth.
I am not prejudiced against the methods used on this set up as a interface between the Tonearm and TT.

I have loaned most of my owned footers within the HiFi Group for extended periods, where other HFi Enthusiast Friends have made the most of the opportunity.
I am not aware of any who made it known that there is a want to pursue the purchase of AT 616 following a loan.

I do know GAIA Footers are selected as the footer of choice from comparisons that took place on a few of the Groups members systems.
The GAIA’s are also said to be comparable to other footers I have made available and these are ones that have superseded the AT 616 that I own.

An AT 616 does a great job under a Speaker and when loaned to a friend, proved to be quite instrumental to them in their making the decision to purchase a Townsend Speaker Support.

I reintroduced a cabinet speaker to my System in Late 2020 as an alternative to my much favoured ESL Speakers.
The Speakers have the Audax Gold Dome Piezzo HD 3P Tweeter with Carbon Fibre Drivers and are known as a design for their transparency.

These were mounted using a variety of Coupling Methods at the base, and to achieve a level of transparency that resembles a ESL,
these have ended up through trials on a Multi Tier Sub Plinth with different materials and Separators making up the construction.
The Speakers finally shone to a attractive level when the AT 616 were used in direct contact with them on top of the constructed plinth base.

The AT 616 are highly recommended by myself for the use under a Speaker, my friends investigation and my recent investigation has settled this for myself and I stand by the positive reports on offer from the findings when used.

There are IMV better replacement footer options available to myself in my listening environment and I assume available to others as an alternative choice of footer, to using an AT 616 when it comes to Isolating a Source Device in a System.

The AT 616 are highly recommended by myself for the use under a Speaker, my friends investigation and my recent investigation has settled this for myself and I stand by the positive reports on offer from the findings when used.

They are under my Tannoy monitors @pinda
The interest in the SP10 MkII Globally is one that will continue with a very long future.
Even more so that there is an SP10 R available.
I can assure the OP they can 'if desired' get a SP10 MkII to perform extremely close to the performance of the SP10 R, for a lesser outlay once they are in possession of an SP10 MkII.  
Where there will be divisions is when the Tonearm and Cartridge choices are being made.
It can be quite difficult to discover individuals mimicking each other in these choices.
The days are no longer with us, where the HiFi Media had been taking on the role of producing a TT Set Up and beating the Drum for it,  where all recommendations 'led to' and are 'compared to' their very supported choice.
The users of a Vinyl Source are much more careful about the choices being made today, some of this is experience related, budget constraints or being wed to certain type of sound, there are others in the mix as well.

A SP10 MkII will certainly produce a unique presentation and if one is wed to that type of Sound Quality then how lucky one is that it is available for a very reasonable outlay.

Looking at previous supplied images and the image in the link of the SP10 used in Broadcast,
I can't see anything in the images that would suggest there was an avoidance to mount them in a purpose built dedicated mounting. 
I feel confident the Designs for the mounting incorporated Isolation Methods.
A Wall Shelf and Sub Plinths in my view is a cost effective way to mount a TT and offer a very good method to Isolate the TT from the ambient environment.

As there is a common theme on the Analogue Threads on this Forum,
where it usual to throw in a $10 000 cost as the basic requirement.
To keep the usual contributors contented, I will make the Sub Plinth Brand known, the Minus K - WS4-1000 is an option to consider as a mounting device, and probably very good at what it does.
Once you have been advised on the magic footers to seat in on, it should hit the magic 10K figure.
Some time back I was lucky enough to acquire a complete, and very lightly used, SL1000 MKII set, original box and packaging intact....

 Mint in its fundamental parts other than two pin head sized chips to one of the faceted edges to the rear and left side of the SH-10B3 plinth.

It patiently waits upon a service before installation into the new main system  some time in spring next year...

FYI, the Fidelis Analog chip set is a replacement in the SP-15 as well as the SP-10 Mk 3.

Also chakster, the simple home use plinth link in your 8/14 post does not open.
@pryso the simplest SH-10B2 on this site (there are many more)

FYI, the Fidelis Analog chip set is a replacement in the SP-15 as well as the SP-10 Mk 3.

Good to know, I asked JP about chip for mk2 (just for backup) and the answer was that they are not compatible.

Never owned SP-15, but I like SP-20 which is same size as SP-10mkII but with internal power supply.

Possibly Dumb Question: do you have to find an SP10 MkII that works on, say, US power, or do the power units allow for accommodation to various voltages around the world?  I see units sometimes listed as BBC or being sold from England or Japan and sometimes see the power plug, sometimes not.  I'm in the US, so do I have to find a unit that works here?
Most SP10s will accept 120V. Those that do not will require 100V. That problem is solved in the USA by using a 120 to 100V step down transformer. Available cheap on eBay.
There is a metal label on the back of SP-10 mk2 drive, never seen 110-120v versions. In Japan they are ONLY 100v.

I use American and Japanese electronics with external step-down transformers.
I ended up getting the Technics SP10 MK II that started this thread.  It looks like an ex display model or something like that.  It has a purpose built resin or fibreglass plinth that is about 20 mm in cross-section, and a couple of badges describing the Technics and the tonearm.  At least when I get old and loose my marbles I’ll still know what it is.. It came with a Supex 900SD Super cartridge but the cantilever was damaged.  I’m running an Ortofon 2M Black.  I don’t get the feeling that it was an ex-broadcast TT.   I paid the equivalent of about $US 2000.   It seems like a really sweet TT, but I haven’t looked into the caps yet.  It didn’t come with a cover, and the counterweight on the Micro MA-88 extends past the plane of the rear of the plinth so a dust over would need a cutout at that point.  Thanks to everyone on this thread … gave me the confidence to take a risk on something that I hadn’t been able to inspect and I’m really having fun with it
Nice, use it as is, you don’t need to change anything in SP-10 mkII if everything is ok. You could definitely upgrade the tonearm.
Chakster, I have SH-10E with 120v 60hz, 220v 50hz switchable power, only one I've ever seen. I purchased from Australia (I'm in US) where it was used in ABC mobile unit.
Laughingfrog, good for you! I much prefer my SP10 II over the many belt drive tts I used over many years.
I progressed through various motor drive TT's to DD and my impressive TT is the SP10 Mk II that is in use very regularly.
I have no problems with other motor drives on TT's and make time to hear them perform.
Was this a display unit, or for some other reason was it in storage for a long period time? If either statement is true, this is a good reason to replace all electrolytic capacitors or at least have a competent person evaluate their condition (which might cost more than empirically replacing them). Total cost in parts is very low. If you have evidence of an overhaul in the last 10-20 years, the lytics are probably ok.
Turn on your Technics first, if it’s fine don’t do anything. Caps might be already replaced by a previous user. 
The unit can appear to operate properly for some time after its electrolytic capacitors have started leaking, until it doesn’t. When it doesn’t operate properly, there is a high likelihood that other parts that are more difficult to source and more expensive have failed due to the failing electrolytics. It is very inexpensive to replace the electrolytic capacitors a priori. I’ve done it for two different samples of the mk2, myself. For some reason Chakster always disagrees with me on this issue. But you have my own opinion based on experience, and you have his based on his experience. Take your pick.
+1 on lewm, fry some electrolytics possibility of taking out other things. Those caps are old and if not used greater possibility of them being dried out. Playing  lotto by not replacing caps, be sure you can afford the possible loss.

At present the $1000 value is close to the Tonearm Value if AUS $ is converted to GBP.
That statement is misleading. The MA88 tonearm is a budget arm that currently sells for US$100-150.
It is easy to be generous with other folks money, personally, I find it obscene.