Theoretical battery power supply question

I’m toying with the idea of taking my audio system (minus the power amp) off the grid and using a lithium battery to power my streamer, DDC, DAC, and preamp.  I checked and all components together require 83 Watts of power and the battery I’m considering can supposedly handle up to 300W power consumption with 600W peak capability.  Seems like this should work and might offer some significant sonic benefits on the relative cheap, but can anyone here with more knowledge of electronics and battery power enlighten me on why this would or would not work or being worthwhile trying?  Obviously my biggest concern is I don’t want to damage any of my components over this, so I’d certainly be interested in any risks I might be open to here.  This is the battery I’m considering, and thanks for any thoughts, info, and expertise.


Why not get the higher wattage version?  I would think it sounds the same, assuming it even has a sound, and it will provide longer playing time between recharges.

There is no telling how good the inverter is in this unit. It could produce a ton of distortion and be way worse than your grid power. 

I’m toying with the idea of taking my audio system (minus the power amp) off the grid and using a lithium battery to power my streamer, DDC, DAC, and preamp.

Alternatively one can get the DAC, Preamp, etc from some manufacturers as 12V battery powered.

(Not sure what a DDC is.)

it is probably cheaper to stick with what you have, and use the lithiums and inverters…
But starting from scratch, then if one wanted it, they could just go battery powered for the entire front end.


I don’t believe in these battery power toys (sorry). Alternatively, I suggest that you read up on isolation transformer based power distributors. I am using one that powers my entire system including my integrated. Stable power and zero coloration. There are few out there, here are few for your reference,

@soix Nothing ventured, nothing gained. I think it's definitely worth a shot. If it doesn't provide any improvement, then you can always return it. Not sure how silent the "silent fan" is. If you decide to keep it, I'd avoid keeping it plugged in 24x7. Charging batteries to 100% diminishes their lifespan.

I’d be concerned that the inverter produces dirtier electricity that the wall outlet. All the marketing managers say "pure sine wave". i’m sure your wall outlet easily meets their requirements. Inverters are not easy.


Second issue that a lot of people don’t think about, maybe you have, is that when your battery is plugged in for charging you’re running off wall power, not battery power, so you have to physically unplug the charger while you are using the battery.

Interesting stuff.  Point taken about the quality of the inverter that I can’t think is very good at this price level.  Given this would be powering about $5k of electronics I’m not willing to risk potentially damaging the equipment due to dirty power, fluctuations, etc. so if I do it I’ll look to the options mentioned here.  Nobody really addressed the question if this battery would have ample power to drive four devices that require 83W to run.  Seems like it should, but what wattage battery would you recommend for that load?

The unit is rated for 280WH (Watt Hours), which means it can power 1 Watt for 280hrs.

83 Watts for 3.37 hrs (280/83)  assuming 100% efficiency.  However, the FAQ on your URL seems to indicate 85% efficiency in their example. In which case: 238/83 = 2.86hrs. 

  • Q2: How to calculate the working times for your device?
  • A: Working time = 280Wh*0.85 / operate power of your device. For reference, assuming power consumption of your device is 30W, working time will be 280Wh*0.85 /30W = 7.93 hrs (rough calculated).

21 watts all in for my most "listened to" system. <30 hours play for me.

My battery stays on the sump pimp.


@rhg3 Yup, I used the same calculation and if I pursued this I’d go with their 500W version that’d get me 7+ hours of use.  But at only $175 I might try the 300W version just with my $400 streamer and see what sonic benefits I get, if any.  Plus, if it blows up I’m not out all that much and gives me an excuse to upgrade my streamer — heh heh.  I’ll follow up if I decide to roll the dice.


Speaking of ‘pure sine wave’ ; I once looked at Isotek system. I was fascinating by their whole system holistic approach, the estimated cost was $14K to treat 5 components. In their ultimate approach, each component is fed by its own sine wave + power conditioner upstream.  I often wonder about what’s that experience going be like! 

I can speak from personal experience. I have and have used a Goalzero Yeti 1250 lead acid battery to power my system. I use it when I want the ultimate listening experience. I have written about this experience on this forum before. Think of it as a gigantic 100 lb. car battery. That's basically what it is.

My main comment is that it drops the noise floor. I listen in my basement where my baseline noise level averages below 20 dB so my environment is pretty quiet. I didn’t know I had a noise floor in my system, but the Yet 1250 somehow eliminates noise from my preamp and amplifiers. It puts out a perfect 60 Hz sine wave. I’m not an electrician but it’s made me wonder if it helps the preamp and amp to be on the exact same frequency. I don’t know. I just know it works.

The reason I don’t use it all the time is because it does eventually lose enough power that it won’t run the system. And my system is already on a dedicated line that sounds pretty good.