Where can make power cord be detachable for LS15

Posted by rcrump on November 7, 2000 at 05:38:45
In Reply to: How to upgrade AC cord? posted by Al on November 6, 2000 at 14:27:24:

Al, some manufacturers make a power cord that is essentially an extension cord with a in-line female for exactly this situation. The other way to go is to buy an in-line male IEC connector from Allied or others, cut the cord going into your equipment and install the in-line connector on the pigtail so you can plug in any of the accessory cords.....It gets sort of tricky for most folks getting inside equipment and installing a panel mount IEC connector and this gives you two other less intrusive options.....

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Here are a few posts of Duster's, a well respected AA member.

Re: Upgrade Captive Power Cord?
Posted by Duster (A) on April 21, 2003 at 23:13:58
In Reply to: Upgrade Captive Power Cord? posted by DD on April 19, 2003 at 19:28:03:
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If you would like to use aftermarket power cords but, don't want to fuss with a dremel tool to install a chassis mount IEC connector, the hard-wired power cord can be snipped off a few inches from the chassis and replaced with an in-line 10 amp male IEC connector (Calrad part #95-772 - in-line male 3 terminal AC plug). This connector can be special ordered from any electronics store that orders parts from Calrad (distributor). Cost is only $2.10 each. Works great. Cheers.

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Cord Mounted IEC Inlet (another very worthy option)...
Posted by Duster (A) on June 14, 2006 at 13:35:09
In Reply to: And the transplant is easy too! posted by bartc on June 14, 2006 at 05:37:46:


Image: Schurter 4735.0000 "Cord Mounted IEC Male" Inlet
Splicing a DIY or commercial aftermarket power cord to a cut off captive power cord's short-length lead outside of a component's enclosure (even when the splice is contained within a project box) is unusual, for sure. I've experimented with Swenco Posi-Lock connectors (butt joint type), but it does not feel like a safe idea to me, and is too makeshift for a dangerous AC connection, IMHO. A safer option is to remove the captive power cord, ream-out the captive power cord's entry hole, and use a high quality cord clamp to secure a new HQ replacement captive power cord to the chassis' back panel. This will assure a safe and secure direct-hardwiring of the replacement power cord:

Hubbell Cord Connector 0.38-0.50"
http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/565

Hubbell Cord Connector 0.50 - 0.625"
http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/979

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Another safe and more versatile alternative is to use a cable-mount IEC inlet (in-line IEC jack):

If a person wants to replace a stock captive power cord with an aftermarket detachable IEC type power cord, but does not want (or is not able) to snip-out an opening on the back panel to install a chassis-mount IEC inlet; an easy modification project is to use a cord-mount IEC inlet instead of a chassis-mount IEC inlet. They are quite easy to terminate and sonically perform very well (at least as good as typical nickel plated brass "electronics grade" stock IEC inlets, IMHO).

Here's an AA link to more info I've posted per topic:

http://db.AudioAsylum.com/cgi/search.mpl?searchtext=calrad&b=OR&topic=&topics_only=N&author=Duster&date1=&date2=&slowmessage=&sort=score&sortOrder=DESC&forum=cables

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Cable-mount IEC inlet product options:

Schurter's 4735.0000 IEC inlet is likely as good as it gets...

Here's www.dedicatedaudio.com's information - (http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/2923):

"...Captured Power Cord Adapter - Hard Wired... Cut off your captured power cord to a short 3" pig-tail and hard wire this great new product. This will allow you to use an after-market power cord of your choice without chassis modification. Up to 14AWG - Screw Terminals. Requires cutting captured power cord. No soldering required..."

Note: An inline IEC jack such as this can accept larger-than 14 AWG conductors if soldered. In fact, I suggest soldering any wire to this device since the screw terminal connections are not very robust, and is a safer method from an "AC danger" POV, IMHO. However, the strain relief clamping system is very solid (so no worries).

The Schurter 4735.0000 sells for $6.50 via electronics suppliers, but I have not seen it available as-sold per single unit. Dedicated Audio sells it for a whopping $19.95 (ok, it's cryo'd, but...). Take Five Audio sells it for $7.67 (CAN$8.49). Click on the Take Five Audio link at the bottom of this message.

An even less expensive option is a Calrad product for only $2.10 (Calrad part #95-772). Ask your favorite electronics store if they can order one from Calrad.

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Take Five Audio link - Schurter 4735.0000 "Cord Mounted IEC Male" jack:

Take Five Audio link - Schurter 4735.0000

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Posted by Duster (A) on June 12, 2006 at 16:56:50

I've previously mentioned the notion of upgrading an audio component's captive power cord's AC plug with an Audio Grade type. I find it to be a very worthy thing for some folks to consider who are not willing (or able) to retrofit an audio component with an IEC inlet to enable the use of an aftermarket power cord upgrade. I've experimented with some affordable Audio Grade Furutech AC plugs terminated to captive power cords that do very well for the purpose. They all provide a surprisingly good sonic upgrade to even a basic captive power cord's performance. While an audiophile quality power cord is a more-optimum upgrade path (IMHO), all hope is *not* lost if one desires better performance by just a simple upgrade of a captive power cord's low-fi sounding stock AC plug.
I'm not the only one who finds this to be a valid thing. A fellow inmate's recent email described very good things when he replaced his preamplifier's captive power cord's stock AC plug with a Furutech FI-11M(Cu) AC plug:

-snip-

"...I could not believe the difference it made... It was like adjusting the lens on a camera to sharpen a slightly blurred image.....all the edges of the notes finally became distinct - yet with less glare than I heard before, and a far deeper and taller soundstage. I'm still stunned at the difference..."

-snip-

I've also found the same results via a Furutech FI-11M(Cu) AC plug when re-terminating a captive power cord, and there's also two other affordable Furutech models that perform very well for the purpose but with different sonic signatures to consider. With cost in mind; discount prices are offered by a4audio.com and is the only North American seller that I'm aware of that stocks all three models (Cryo-Parts sells the Furutech FI-11M(Cu)). So, here's is an overview of the three AC plugs, IME...

Note: All three Furutech models are cryo treated:

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1. Furutech FI-11M(Cu) AC plug. Copper plated phosphor bronze (with copper-corrosion protective treatment). This is my favorite low-cost Audio Grade AC plug. Out of the three; it will provide the most transparent upgrade in terms of it's sonic signature. It offers a large and open soundstage, clean and detailed treble, and a full-sounding bottom end:

$27 via a4audio.com:

http://www.a4audio.com/cd-detail.asp?CatalogID=1648&Group=ByBrand&SGroup=Furutech

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2. Furutech FI-15ME(R) AC plug. Rhodium plated pure copper (not bronze nor brass). Great for bringing a more vivid and more forward (in a good way) soundstage presentation (not as large as the FI-11M(Cu)'s, but still open sounding). The bass presentation is tighter but less dynamic sounding than the FI-11M(Cu)'s:

$36 via a4audio.com:

http://www.a4audio.com/cd-detail.asp?CatalogID=1377&Group=ByBrand&SGroup=Furutech

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3. Furutech FI-15ME(G) AC plug. Gold plated pure copper (not bronze nor brass). Great for bringing more midrange presence and overall warmth and body to images. The soundstage presentation is not as large as the FI-11M(Cu)'s, and not quite as open sounding as either the FI-11M(Cu) or the FI-15ME(R). The bass presentation is richer in the mid-bass than the FI-11M(Cu)'s, not as tight as the FI-15ME(R)'s, and the treble is less prominent than either (perhaps good for taming a bright sounding component):

$27 via a4audio.com:

http://www.a4audio.com/cd-detail.asp?CatalogID=1376&Group=ByBrand&SGroup=Furutech

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Also something else to consider...

An affordable Audio Grade AC outlet upgrade tip:

I also highly recommend (while one is at it) an affordable Audio Grade AC outlet upgrade to better complement the AC plug upgrade. Furutech's FP-15A(Cu) is an outstanding lower-cost Audio Grade option that offers a more organic/musical presentation than any Hospital Grade (or otherwise) AC outlet in the lower-cost Audio Grade price range:

$36 via a4audio.com:

http://www.a4audio.com/cd-detail.asp?CatalogID=1682&Group=ByBrand&SGroup=Furutech

Cheers, Duster

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Al, I don't see an issue it's not that close and not that much of a room needed, at most the lettering may be cut-off, but for the upgrade sake...
As another option to drilling for IEC socket, OP may re-solder aftermarket PC

Bojack, why do you persist?

The OP, and those suggesting drilling out the rear panel, might want to take a look at photos of the OP's early version LS15, and of the later version which as Jl35 mentioned had a detachable power cord. (Click on the thumbnails of the photos near the bottom of this page). Notice how the adjacent fuseholder had to be moved to the left on the later version, to accommodate the IEC connector. And consider what, if anything, the fastener near the left end of an IEC connector mounted on the early version might be able to fasten to, given that relocating the fuseholder would leave a hole at that location.

Also, note how all of the nearby lettering was relocated on the later version, including the "warning" and "caution" statements that are above.

I don't necessarily agree with the previous poster that the resulting sound would be exactly the same (although that's certainly a possibility IMO), but I also wouldn't rule out the possibility that it might turn out to be worse rather than better. With the resale value of a nice preamp probably having been destroyed in the process.

Regards,
-- Al

Not worth it at all. It's a PIA, will cost, and result in EXACTLY the same sound you have now.

I used to have mine done at a local electronics repair guy in Berkeley. It isn't that hard to do. He used to charge me $60 -$80.

Don't forget to replace all the crappy wire in the walls too.

Skysound,

Instead of cutting a hole in the back of the LS-15 for an IEC inlet connector you might want to consider a male IEC cord cap connector.
You would just cut the existing power cord about 6" from the rear panel and wire the IEC male connector to the cord.
The connector in this Link is one I found doing a search on the Net. You may be able to find an audio grade male connector.
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WOW. Sending the WHOLE unit to techie by mail and than paying for services is lotsa $$$, but the fact is indeed many folks who don't even have hammer handy!

Had a tech do it i would not even try this.

I had this done to an earlier ARC pre an SP6B. I had it done by an experienced tech. This seems to me the most direct and practical way to accomplish this. Since IECs are shared with the computer world there may be more people who understand power supply IEC work than may first appear.

Might be best to just trade for the later version. The cap and power supply upgrade was relatively inexpensive, and very worthwhile.

Ebm, what tools did you use to drill IEC hole and what shop did it?

You can use few methods before sending it to upgrade audio shops:

1. you can get electric power shears $300-ish
First, mark the perimeter for incertion of IEC plug, than drill a hole within perimeter with hand held drill. Use portable nibler such as Trumpf Portable Metal Shears to work around perimeter. You can use ruler to pivot the cutting chisel.

2. Probably the most accurate and accessible method using circular diamond cutting disks for your hand held drill. You must be able to remove the rear pannel for safety and cut each straight line with cutting stone first from inner side where the tolerance for imperfections is substantially larger than outside and cut every line with slight overlaps beyond marked perimeter corners while outside leaving small breakable gaps. Knock off the plate and finesse the hole with file to look smooth. You can lock your drill into the clamp(if such available) and work the rear plate around the cutting disk

3. you can simply purchase power-grip wood-works chisel $12 with diamond tip and gradually work to cut chassis using metal ruler or strip for pivot

4. You can bring removed rear pannel directly to the sheet-metal shop or welding shop to cut this hole perfectly...

Power-shears are pricey, but if you will be able to rent them for $25/day you'll make hole in no time.
There's also slight room for error or imperfection behind IEC socket flanges.

The later versions of the LS15 had a detachable power cord, different caps, and an upgraded power supply. I sent mine to ARC and they did all the upgrades but would not make the power cord detachable. That was about 10 years ago.

Get your unit drilled out for a detachable cord did that this 25 yrs ago big improvement in sound it was ARC SP15.Enjoy