Why my system has detail but no body & warm vocal?

I used to have the same complaints - thin & bright. Keep your hardware for now - you'll NEVER know the full potential of your present setup until you begin experimenting with upgrade AC cords, interconnects, speaker cables, AC line conditioning, tweaks such as shelving, cones, pods, footers. Even your rack has a significant effect on sonic signature.
At one time I was, like you, considering replacing components. That's only a part of the answer, part of the time. I tuned what I have to my liking & I'm so glad that I found out the true potential of my existing equipment. It was there all along - I just had to solve some puzzles to get it there.

Mejames- I can appreciate your experience with the cables you mention, but why would you doubt, or rather HOW could you actually DISAGREE with the statement by Newbee that is qualified with "In my experience". He was drawing from his own experience as you are drawing on yours. Surely you aren't disagreeing that he actually had the experience he says he did. Just a matter of semantics, but I guess it struck me because you actually chose to quote him in your post.

Regarding the $1000 interconnects you do mention. Are you suggesting that Yxlei should invest in these cables given the cost of his other components? It would seem a bit out of proportion to me, but perhaps you are just using it as an example. I've got to say that I've certainly heard one cable sound warmer than another, and a power cord that can bring sonic improvements to a system. But I've never heard any of those improvements be as significant as a change in hardware. Now perhaps I just haven't heard enough cables in the really high-end to know what is possible, but I when I switched from Kimber 4TC speaker cable I went to a pretty expensive and well reviewed set of Synergistic Research Signature 2 cables. Yes, the difference was immediately apparent, and in that case I found the sound stage improved, the sound was a bit warmer to my ears, and the imaging a bit more focused. I was very happy with the change, but the system was not far from where I wanted it to be to start with. Did it impart a whole new voice to my system? I'd have to say it did improve the sound markedly, but I would not have called the difference a major shift in sonic presentation that would make a thin&bright system more rich and full. I would really like to hear cables that made that kind of difference. Perhaps I'm just not discriminating enough, or just haven't heard the right cables yet?

Mejames & Bob, please help me with my understanding of electronics - exactly how would a change in cable produce an (apparent) increase in sound in the lower midrange and upper bass (without a corresponding reduction in the adjacent frequencies)? I always thought that passive devices could not add, only subtract.

I would agree with a number of the posts above with respect to tweaking and tuning. Speaker placement and whether the room is really hard sounding and bright are critical issues. So are what your electronics are sited on.

So, for a freebie, experiment with speaker positioning; that is a given.

For under $150, you will get a major improvement and a big move in the direction you're looking for by:

1) replacing your electrical receptacles with Hubbell 5262's
(that is model HBL 5262) at about $10 each

2)siting your amp and CD player on either a maple cutting board from Home Depot for about $17 or vibrapods, (4 per component @$6 each), preferably both, using a vibrapod sandwich with the cutting board.

3) Buy one Quantum Electroclear for $40 and plug your CD player into it and the Quantum into the Hubbell receptacle.

If you like what that does (and you will), buy another Quantum for the integrated amp and plug the amp into it (it will probably have to go into another receptacle than the CD player is plugged into though-this, in itself would be a good thing.)

So far, it's pretty cheap. If you then want to blow big bucks, build 2 five ft. power cords for your amp and CD player by ordering 10 ft of in wall JPS AC cord (about $15 ft. from the Cable Co. or a JPS dealer) and use Marinco 8215 plug and 320 IEC to terminate it. This will cost you $100 per cord in total and you will own outstanding cords that absolutely address the problem you describe.

So, for about $350 (and you can do this in stages if you want to), you have addressed receptacles, isolation, power conditioning and power cords. You will then know what your system is really capable of without blowing your brains out on equipment. Only then would I start to make any equipment or wire changes (and I have owned both the 4TC and Hero, currently use 8TC, and replaced the Hero with something less expensive!). My system is reasonably low budget like yours, but with attention to details, you can pull some very high performance out of economical equipment.