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Proper method when rack is not on cement floor

I'm moving my 2 channel system into another room. Right now it's in a room that has a wood floor over cement (with area rug), so I have the rack spiked to the floor and everything seems okay. The new location is still on the first floor of the house, but the floor is over a 2-1/2' crawlspace, so it's pretty much a hollow cavity under the rack. Again it's a wooden floor, but with a rug. Is spiking under the rack still advisable for this sort of arrangement? If not, what is the preferred method?

The rack will be in a corner location in this other room, if that helps.
tonyptony
rushton's avatar
rushton
2,445 posts
 
Sorry about the bad link. Yes, the Tiger Brand posts are the ones I used and was trying to show you.
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tonyptony OP
617 posts
 
No problem. Is the idea to "push up" a bit on the jack once it has been put into place? That is, to put some counterpressure on what is probably a sagging floor? If so, how is that done with these jacks?
rushton's avatar
rushton
2,445 posts
 
Yes, that is the idea. The jacks are very heavy steal, with plates at top and bottom, and a threaded rod at one end. They telescope to several interim lengths, you choose the length that is just short of your overall height from floor-to-joist. Then you turn the threaded rod until tight between floor and joist, and turn a bit more to either add just a touch of support or a bit more beyond that to lift out a sag. By using a number of these, you can end up with a very rigid, very strong, floor.
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tonyptony OP
617 posts
 
Okay. Just have to find someone willing to get into that crawlspace! I'm too big a guy to squeeze into something like that. I took another look at it, and it's more along the lines of two feet or so.
sean
6,231 posts
 
Tony, Rushton's idea is a good one, but let me offer one more bit of advice to take that a step further. When installing the floor jacks, mount a 4' x 4' on top of them and use three jacks. The jacks themselves should be spread out but spaced so that they are directly underneath floor joists. Even though the 4x4 will lift and support the flooring, it is better to have the jacks directly underneath the joists for what should be obvious reasons.

By using the 4x4, you lift abd support that whole section of the floor in a somewhat even manner, making it even more rigid. Placing large sections of flat patio type stone under the floor jacks also spreads the load out over a wider area and keeps the jacks themselves from sinking into the soil.

This whole project shouldn't cost you more than about $30 - $40 at the very most and should make a substantial difference in the solidity of your flooring and what you hear. I just hope you've got a good friend that is both skinny and limber that works cheap : ) Sean
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