Single driver speakers - opinions

Of caurse I agree with you about the shortcoming in many speaker designs (electrostatics are no exception) and I have state that in one of my previous posts.

As to your DIY assessment -

"Single driver design for DIY might be not the best choice - it is difficult and drivers are not available".

I do not really agree with that statement.
Fostex drivers are easily obtainable, as well as Great Plains Audio, Lowther ets.
Fostex being one of the best when it comes to value and Lowther drivers as the state of the art ( some claim their superiority) but costly alternatives.

If you decided to build SD enclosures yourself, it would cost you 10X less then commercial products. Even if you had to hire a cabinet maker or handy finishing carpenter it would still be substantially less then anything close in performance vs cost on the market today.

(you can alway find the way if you put your mind to it)

$7000 Fujitsu Eclipse is a very nice speaker. I had a pleasure of auditioning those on few occasions. Awesome image, soundstage, well balanced, cute bass*.....
*and that is the problem I had with this particular speakers.
Also, 7K is a bit much for what you get from these small monitors. They sure look nice though.

If I told you that:
you can have a speaker that will require some sweat, work, will sound IMO better then those 7K monitors (and many others in that price range) for ........lets say, $1500 - would you believe me????

The trade off - size, look, some research ( not a trade off if you can learn a thing or two about speaker design in general) and low WAF.

What you can get is:
* satisfaction ( you build it....right?)
* open window between you and performers.
* most require just a few watts of power (quality over quantity is the general rule here)
* VALUE

Mariusz

DIY can be fun.

It doesn't have to be hard. Start with an old existing design that you can pick up cheap and try just upgrading drivers, etc. This can make a big difference.

I do not have time for major DIY work. I did do a DIY bass driver upgrade with very minor cabinet and internal damping mods for $130 to my 30 year old Ohm Ls using new high quality Morel woofers. THe results were definitely a big step forward. These speaks sound very good now on most genres even in very large rooms. They are not as smooth still as my professionally designed models, but compete far better than I had really expected prior.

Guys with know how and experience..........please.

What drivers are IYO good candidates for "Single Driver" design? (and could you explain why?)

Good, better , best?

-------------------------------------------------------------

Mapman is right , if you have some spare time and basic tools - it can also be fun and productive.

I have talk to my brother (a cabinetmaker) about various building techniques and options. My conclusion is this:
*It can be done in two ways (both will work though)

1. low cost , unattractive, with simple joinery/glue up tech., 90% of the performance of the second approach (give that the plans are the same).

2. Higher cost, complicated building techniques, precision = higher fabrication costs, longer assembly time,
higher WAF, custom finish, in all - well , quality = time and $$$.

In about 15 min. we came out with the cost of the project, design tech. that will be superior in long term use, build quality, materials and finish options.
In order to meet my high standards , extra budget was dedicated for pro. finisher (solid color) and/or quite expensive veneering process (commercial press).
Veneering with plain adhesive (old school with roller)is a short term solution and will show in the form of "bubbles" and edge wear.

So the choice is yours.
Whichever way you choose, it can be done.
The cost and look is up to you.

Happy listening

Thanks

Mariusz

You would laugh if I told you what I use and would never even bother trying it if I did.
For me, the most practical "single driver" design is a standard cabinet and full range from 40hz-5-8,000hz with a supertweeter above that. Better than adding the sub, or sub and S-T, or horn, or OB designs.

Transmission line is also a possibility if you want more bass.

Lowest string of the bass is E=44Hz. Grand piano's A=27Hz is seldom used. I will settle for 50Hz. On the high end - I probably cannot hear above 14kHz. Maybe I should go for single driver design.

Only one question to all DIY guys - why Revel bought so expensive test equipment (laser diffraction included) that other companies cannot even afford it? It is much, much more complicated than carpenter's work and veneering with the roller. As for the fun - I am all for the fun.