Single driver speakers - opinions

DIY can be fun.

It doesn't have to be hard. Start with an old existing design that you can pick up cheap and try just upgrading drivers, etc. This can make a big difference.

I do not have time for major DIY work. I did do a DIY bass driver upgrade with very minor cabinet and internal damping mods for $130 to my 30 year old Ohm Ls using new high quality Morel woofers. THe results were definitely a big step forward. These speaks sound very good now on most genres even in very large rooms. They are not as smooth still as my professionally designed models, but compete far better than I had really expected prior.

Guys with know how and experience..........please.

What drivers are IYO good candidates for "Single Driver" design? (and could you explain why?)

Good, better , best?

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Mapman is right , if you have some spare time and basic tools - it can also be fun and productive.

I have talk to my brother (a cabinetmaker) about various building techniques and options. My conclusion is this:
*It can be done in two ways (both will work though)

1. low cost , unattractive, with simple joinery/glue up tech., 90% of the performance of the second approach (give that the plans are the same).

2. Higher cost, complicated building techniques, precision = higher fabrication costs, longer assembly time,
higher WAF, custom finish, in all - well , quality = time and $$$.

In about 15 min. we came out with the cost of the project, design tech. that will be superior in long term use, build quality, materials and finish options.
In order to meet my high standards , extra budget was dedicated for pro. finisher (solid color) and/or quite expensive veneering process (commercial press).
Veneering with plain adhesive (old school with roller)is a short term solution and will show in the form of "bubbles" and edge wear.

So the choice is yours.
Whichever way you choose, it can be done.
The cost and look is up to you.

Happy listening

Thanks

Mariusz

You would laugh if I told you what I use and would never even bother trying it if I did.
For me, the most practical "single driver" design is a standard cabinet and full range from 40hz-5-8,000hz with a supertweeter above that. Better than adding the sub, or sub and S-T, or horn, or OB designs.

Transmission line is also a possibility if you want more bass.

Lowest string of the bass is E=44Hz. Grand piano's A=27Hz is seldom used. I will settle for 50Hz. On the high end - I probably cannot hear above 14kHz. Maybe I should go for single driver design.

Only one question to all DIY guys - why Revel bought so expensive test equipment (laser diffraction included) that other companies cannot even afford it? It is much, much more complicated than carpenter's work and veneering with the roller. As for the fun - I am all for the fun.

Thankfully, I was able to listen to the CarderSound with Mariusz (great to finally meet you!) a few nights ago, and was more than impressed with the performance of the two models we got to listen to. Each model had, with the medium sized TyBone model possessing the type of resolution and imaging that would impress the most jaded of audiophiles, while largest Madison offering the type of low frequency performance that I was beginning to wonder if I would ever hear in this design. I never thought bass was impossible, as there are plenty of ported loudspeakers with 8" drivers in far smaller cabinets, so why not a backloaded horn? I'd just not come across it up until now.

I've been around other single driver loudspeakers, and there is a surprising variance in their sonic signatures. My recommendation is that one should carefully investigate the field should they be interested in pursuing this type of product. Yes, they are that different.