“Real” bass vs. “Boom” — how do you know which?


Hi,

I'm working on positioning a new pair of Ohm Walsh 100's in my listening room. I think I'm getting close to an optimal positioning with regard to soundstaging and imaging, but I'm less sure when it comes to tonal balance.

How can you tell if the bass you're hearing is “real bass” vs. ”boom“ from room interactions?

Oddly shaped room, around 12' x 15', wood floors, speakers placed asymmetrically (out of necessity) along long wall: both speakers are 20 inches from rear wall. Right speaker is 16 inches from right wall, left speaker is around 5 feet from left wall. Two pieces of soft furniture: day bed (listening position) opposite speakers, and lounge chair to left of left speaker. Windows on three of four walls, with soft blinds on them, although I've generally been more pleased with the sound with the shades up.

Thanks in advance!!
rebbi
I'm not a fan of using drum recordings since the bass drum will have one note pitch so will not offer the differentiation I look for.

Good point (although drum sounds are much more complex in their sound compared to typical instruments that follow harmonic rules). Drums do let you check the "transient" response - as this can be just as much of a problem in the bass as frequency response (although the two are tightly related because a high Q resonance of an underdamped speaker will create a broad frequency response hump as well as additional cycles of the woofer after the music has stopped, and although this broad hump can look mild when viewed with the eye it is actually very easily audible)

The key with drums is to listen for their own timbre (after the hit) and then the room echo (from the recording location) as well as your own listening room. If you can't hear this clearly (you don't hear the space around the drums) then you may have masking from an underdamped bass response... either from your speaklers or ringing from room modes.

Masking works upwards: Basically low frequencies wipe out your ability to hear higher frequencies - so if they last too long (resonance) or if they are overly loud then you'll miss stuff off the recording - simply put you won't hear it.

This is why warm resonant sound can pretty much fix a bad recording...it just lathers everything in resonance and hides imperfections that you might normally notice.
Hey Rebbe,

Lots of good thing recommended here to try.

Bottom line is you need a frame of reference for what good bass is. Listening live (to a well produced performance) and listening on good headphones if you have them, where room acoustics are taken out of the equation, are two good ones.

Once you have the frame of reference, then you can try the various tweaks as needed to attempt to match it. Tehre is no way to take the acoustics of your room out of the equation though. In the the end you have to tweak your system to your room to simulate what you hear elsewhere.

Believ me, once you get all this worked out with those 100's, you'll know it and be a happy dweller in bass heaven!
"Agreed-
a test cd will help you solve this problem."

I say, are you still living in the ice age?

Try this instead; http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/

If you want to know if you have boomy bass just take a look at your waterfall plots. Dont forget to have a hanky handy, to cry into when you see what your room/system response really is.
Bob
If you want to know if you have boomy bass just take a look at your waterfall plots!

You can see an example of a waterfall on my virtual system. It is simple to do but I suspect most "plug 'n play" folks (who consider a major upgrade to be changing an interconnect or a speaker cable) would find this approach daunting. "Nerds Only" applies! ;-)