What is more accurate: magnetic anti-skating, or barrel weight attached a fishline?

The Sony PUA 237/ 286 also uses some irregular shaped ''cam''

fastened at the collar of the arm (aka: vertical bearing). But this

''cam'' is connected with an tension wire which can be adjusted

in correlation with the VTF and/or stylus shape. I thought that no 

tonearm manufacturer copied this ''invention'' but just learned from

''some'' Aussie that Cobra and Coperhead (also from Australia)

made their own variation of this  invention by Sony .

Dear SunnyJim,

Initially, since A/S is a constantly moving target and whatever setting we use which sounds "good" to our ears is the "accurate" one, I confess I read your post with a slightly different interpretation i.e. "which of these methods has the least deleterious effect on SQ across the entire groove"?

.......I'd like to know the answer myself! ;^)

Dear chakster, I prefer the Lustre 801. Excelent tonearm but with

mediocre lift construction. And, as Raul already recommended, the

counterweight(s) should be used in the usual way avoiding magnetic

VTF adjustment. This way the counterweight(s) can be get nearer to

the pivot.

Thanks to all the members who responded. I never expected such an impassioned discussion over the anti-skating used on many turntables. I believe one of  the responders ask me what tables have I seen using the wire suspended anti-skating device. On most Project tables, and also on the Music Hall 5.3  and the new MH  Ikura table.

To John-Tracy. Never watched Kung-Fu.  However, I could retitle the thread title to: "HOOK. LINE, AND SINKER"  ANTI-SKATING".....etc. 

I  once forget to apply anti-skating, and the stylus while in play just skated right across the record. I might try it on the Thorens I currently own to see as some have suggested if it improves the sound quality.