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What is Technics thinking?

Lots has been said, both pro and con, about the new Technics turntable.  Description here -

http://www.sl1200gae.info/about

Some are excited about the potential, given the upgrades since their last production table/arm, the venerable SL-12XX series.  Others see it simply as an excuse to raise the price significantly of the 1200s.

In my view they shot themselves in the foot.  They copied the model number of their best selling table (I can only imagine in the hope the familiarity will carry over) and also ended up with a very similar appearance.  Given the information on all the upgrades over their prior model, the similarities make it appear like something less than what it might be.

Technics had a room at THE Show Newport and that was my first chance to see a SL-1200GAE.  The fit and finish appeared to be very good but it did look like a "polished up" SL-12XX.  I ask the Technics rep why they didn't do more to distinguish this as a new model, given their efforts with engineer upgrades.  He said he could understand my question but then really didn't offer a reasonable explanation.  After describing all the components which had been redesigned/upgraded from the prior model he offered a demo.  However the room was crowded and the remainder of the system was completely unfamiliar, so no fair impression could be made.

I believe it should have had a more unique model designation and more might have been done to the physical package so it didn't look so much like the prior model.

pryso
m-db's avatar
m-db
1,000 posts
 
pryso, I agree. Your post got me thinking about what may have driven this design.
For me a glaring motive was maintaining the iconic look that even a line image of it is now easily recognizable as a turntable by people who may have never seen a turntable in person. 

Would a weekend scratcher pitch $8K for a pair of decks when the Pioneer version are the hot ticket at their local GC, definitely not. On the other hand there are plenty of concert level pro DJs who wouldn't blink at the status improvement like a set of twenty-two inch rims.

I can't imagine what they were thinking when improving that damn arm. Its 2016 and that VTA adjustment still can't be safely done on the fly and its S shape prevents an on the fly azimuth adjustment. WTF? 
pryso OP
1,957 posts
 
"its S shape prevents an on the fly azimuth adjustment. WTF?"

With most arms azimuth is set at the headshell, few rotate the arm tube itself.  So why does it matter if S shape, J, or straight with offset headshell?

Actually I can't think of ANY arm that allows azimuth "on the fly", fortunately some do allow for VTA. 

m-db's avatar
m-db
1,000 posts
 
Anti-skate, VTA, and azimuth, adjustments can be made on the fly with my Well Tempered Classic with fork towered arm. As the quality of my phono section and cartridge improved these vernier adjustments became much more important in dialing in the decks presentation during play. 

While the SL does allow limited azimuth adjustment, spinning the P-mount head shell is a time consuming hit or miss affair. Guess I'm spoiled. 
ghosthouse's avatar
ghosthouse
4,319 posts
 
@m-db  
Pretty certain "on the fly" relative to turntable adjustments usually means while playing a record.  Are you saying your WTC lets you adjust azimuth with the arm lowered and the needle in the groove of a spinning record?  

johnnyb53
3,510 posts
 
While the SL does allow limited azimuth adjustment, spinning the P-mount head shell is a time consuming hit or miss affair.

I think you mean 1/2" universal headshell. P-mount is a non-adjustable plug-in with no lead wires to attach. The Jelco HS-20, HS-25, and HS-30 universal 1/2" headshells all include azimuth adjustment. 

The HS-20 is available in the US as the Sumiko HS12 headshell; the HS-25 is available as the LP Gear ZuPreme. The ZuPreme is the better deal---$54.95 with built-in finger lift vs. $90 for the Sumiko with a fussy finger lift that requires threading the cartridge mounting bolts through the cartidge, headshell, and finger lift.

Also, I check for and adjust for azimuth by setting a small bubble level on the top of the headshell (with stylus guard in place), loosening the hex set screw to rotate the headshell until the bubble indicates it's level, and then tightening it again. 
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