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Power conditioner help

Hi All,

 Posting this here since there is no section devoted to power products. I also posted it in the miscellaneous section. 

If you had a choice between PS Audio P10 power plant and a Transparent Powerisolator Reference, which would you choose and why? Both available at reasonable prices, though P10 is still quite a bit more. I have a pretty high end system with a Musical Fidelity NuVista 800 integrated amp, NuVista CD (the new one), Scoutmaster turntable, SDS/ADS, Herron VTPH2, Wilson Sashas, and all Transparent Ref MM2 cables. System sounds great, but my present Powerbank 8 is quite old now, so I want to upgrade it.

Thanks for your opinions.
arsh
auxinput
2,920 posts
 

Yes, I have. I actually used to run all Hubbell outlets and Hubbell 20A male plugs for all my home theater equipment. I was experimenting with power connectors on my separate computer audio system and put in a Wattgate male plug. All of a sudden, I said "hey, this sounds just like sound I’m getting out of my theater". It was not a good sound - it was very fast, but very shouty and sterile. Just a single Wattgate plug in the mix caused this problem (I had 4 devices - DAC, preamp, 2 studio monitors). The Wattgate connectors and the Hubbell connectors/outlets all have one thing in common - brass conductors. I have since swapped out all my Hubbell outlets/plugs with Furutech FPX unplated copper outlets and Furutech FI-11 unplated copper male plugs. I use all Rhodium plated Furutech FI-52 and FI-50 IEC connectors for my equipment. All this was a significant improvement.

I have put more comments in this thread:

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/furutech-vs-neotech-gold-plated-schuko-sound-quality

Don’t get me wrong, at $20-24 per plug, the Wattgate are "decent" plugs, but they do not compare at all to the Furutech pure-copper stuff. Since your considering several thousand for a power conditioner, a $70 FPX(Cu) outlet is not any big expense and I would say it will significantly improve things.

Be aware, the rhodium plated stuff require 250 hours burn-in.  And they don't fully open up until somewhere between 300-400 hours.

arsh OP
367 posts
 
Thanks again auxinput. I will read about the Furutech outlets and plugs. I wonder how much the interaction between such things and the components determines the sonic outcome, rather than the outlets/plugs in isolation? I don't find the sound I'm getting now shouts or sterile at all.
reynolds853
388 posts
 
Arsh,

I use a Bryston AVR20 isolation transformer and love it.  It's the exact same thing as a Torus AVR20, just branded by Bryston, so any review you read on either can be substituted for the other.  The AVR series has surge protection, power isolation/conditioning, and voltage regulation.  Without voltage regulation it becomes the RM series for Torus or a BIT if carrying the Bryston brand.  I love mine and recommend it without hesitation.  The 20-series are the 20A versions.  Peak current output is 400A for 1/2 second, 200A for 1 second, and 100A for 10 seconds.  The 15-series are the 15A versions and 300/150/75A for the peak current specifications.  Both Torus or Bryston would be very responsive if you were to ask them which series would be most suitable for your amp.

I run my system on a 20A dedicated line with a Wattgate outlet, which was about $135 at the time I got it years ago.  Since we are on the subject of power, I use Kimber PK10 Palladian power cords throughout my system and can recommend them too.

Cheers,

John

erik_squires
16,676 posts
 
Pure Power, designed by the same guy who owns Jensen transformers. First class stuff. :)

Best,


Erik
arsh OP
367 posts
 
Thanks guys. Reynolds853, do you plug your amps into the wall or your Bryston?
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