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Whole house re-wiring question

Here’s the situation: We're doing a gut renovation on a 2200-square foot house. The entire electrical system is being replaced, and about half the rooms are being taken down to the studs. I'm planning on doing gratuitous wiring because obviously it's cheaper to have the wiring and not use it than to open up the walls in the future.

Essentially, I'll be running multiple CAT6 lines to every room, coax CATV to most rooms, and speaker wire to many of the rooms.

My setup will be: One 5.1 room with a TV and Paradigm in-ceiling speakers. Hardware: Oppo CD/DVDA/SACD/BluRay/DVD, Denon 2112 receiver. I'd like to do multiple zones of audio, and despite the fact that Sonos doesn't do anything above 16/44, I think that's the easiest solution. Then I'll have at least one room where I can listen to hi-res digital audio, probably using a Music Fidelity M1 CLiC.

My electrician has said he's comfortable laying all of this -- but of course when I talked to a custom installer he said it would be crazy to have an electrician do this b/c they don't know about maximum pull rate, minimum turn angles, etc. He quoted me a price of around $8k to run all those wires and set up a structured media center.

My questions are:

Am I, indeed, crazy for thinking about having my electrician do all of this?

Is setting up an SMC something I can do myself -- and if so, where would I go to find out information about it? I've been corresponding with someone from Leviton and he's laid out a whole slew of things I could potentially use in an SMC, but I have no way to evaluate his recommendations.

Are there any DIY home automation systems that make sense? HAI does sell directly to consumers (unlike Crestron and I think Control4) but I don't know if that's something that I should try to do.

(I have plenty of other more specific questions, too -- about what type of speaker wire to use, about CAT6 wire, about whether it makes sense to run conduits, etc -- but I can start throwing those out if this is indeed the right place to look for some help. If it's not, and if anyone has any suggestions for more appropriate forums, that'd be much appreciated...)
plgtimes
jsd52756
432 posts
 
Speaking from experience( I am not an electrician although my brother is and he helped me considerably):
Run flex throught the walls everywhere and anywhere you are even considering running wires. If you do not use some of them so what? Put a blank plate over the boxes.
If you opt out on flex in some areas, say for the Cat6 and just run it through the drilled studs, put protector plates on both sides of every stud where the wire runs through the stud. They are small steel plates that will make sure no one can drive a drywall screw into your wires. If you get a screw in a wire you will play hell trying to find it and drink way too much alcohol trying to locate the short. Hope this helps, John
lloydc's avatar
lloydc
751 posts
 
the key is getting a competent electrician. Many are not.
swampwalker's avatar
swampwalker
5,138 posts
 
And the key to getting a competent electrician is....?
tbromgard
814 posts
 
To get a good electrician you can (depending on your state) 1) look them up on the Secretary of State's website or State Contractor's Board to make sure they are licensed and insured, check for disciplinary actions, liens, and number of years in the business; 2) interview them on the basics of your system-do they recognize your components and what you want? 3) ask for references or photos of prior work-any good installer will have plenty to provide to you.
jea48
4,425 posts
 
And the key to getting a competent electrician is....?
07-30-12: Swampwalker

Word of mouth from others that have used the guy.

Quality workmanship abilities would be right up near the top of the list.

Ya the guy should be licensed, Bonded, and insured. But that is no guarantee how good of a job he will do.

NEC Code says, an installation shall be installed in a neat and workman like manner.... By whose standards? I guess the local AHJ?..... The inspector looks for code violations.... Not how good the job looks or how your audio system will perform.

Here is what Article 90 of NEC 2011 has to say.....

90.1 Purpose.

(A) Practical Safeguarding. The purpose of this code is the practical safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity.

(B) Adequacy. This Code contains provisions that are considered necessary for safety. Compliance therewith and proper maintenance results in an installation that is essentially free from hazard but not necessary efficient, convenient, or adequate for good service or future expansion of electrical use.

(C) Intention. This Code is not intended as a design specification or an instruction manual for untrained persons.

So if an electrician tells you his work meets code all he is really saying is that his work will meet bare minimum NEC and local electrical safety code standards......

A good example is VD, voltage drop, on a branch circuit line. NEC only gives a recommendation for addressing VD when calculating the wire size for VD. Addressing VD is not mandatory.....

If you tell the electrician you want a 120V 20 amp dedicated branch circuit installed for your audio equipment, per NEC he has to use a minimum wire size of #12 awg. The length of the branch circuit by code doesn't really matter. To your power amp it might....

We know from experience and the experiences of others that multiple branch circuits that feed audio equipment, connected together by ics, should be fed from the same Line, leg, of the electrical panel. A non audiophile electrician has been taught to balance his loads across the legs of the panel.

You the customer have to do your homework. There is a lot of good information out there. A good Electrician/Electrical Contractor will help you in the design, wiring methods, and materials that can be used to meet NEC and local codes.
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