Ohm Walsh Micro Talls: who's actually heard 'em?

Interesting.

The advantage of XO models (compared to other originals like 1,2,4,5) is that they are advertised easier to drive and more efficient which is certainly a factor that might influence results positively in many cases.

I suspect they are likely more efficient than comparable newer 1000 models but have not verified that.

As a sidenote I also recall reading something from JS in his OHM site blog I think that indicated smaller models in a line are less efficient than larger ones, which would seem to make sense.

Also be certain not all OHMs of a particular model or line always sound alike. The sound heard can vary widely for many reasons. Being omnis/radials, room acoustics IS a particularly key factor as always. Amp used, quality of source and all the other usual culprits (including operating condition) can come into play as usual. Its a team sport. Speakers alone make no sound.

Also worth mentioning of course that Walsh 4s are quite a bit larger than 2.2000 and I am a steadfast believer that size always matters when it comes to speakers and their ability to put out large or sufficient amounts of good sound.

Another point is that as I recall with X000 series prices did go up in general for speakers of a certain size in the line so you get a smaller speaker (with advertised better drivers) for your money.  That's where refurbs, sales and trade-ins can really help though.

mapman, based on your speaker timeline, my 4XOs are of the series 2 variety. The Ohm website lists the manufacturing date range as late 1980s to early 1990s. If Ohm had made improvements up through the current series (which my 2.2000 are), they should blow away the "old" 4XO version.

I used an amp with sufficient power (Parasound 1500) and increased the volume during the 2.2000 testing to compensate for the efficiency difference which isn't huge (2 dB).

The problem that I am talking about is the inability of the 2.2000 speakers to reproduce sound that is clearly there in the 4XO speakers. Speakers typically don't create sound, they reproduce it from a source. So, if the source is the same and sound is missing from one set of speakers then something is wrong with the speakers.

It seems to me that trying to rationalize missing sound on the "room" when two sets of speakers share the same space is a stretch. I'm happy to be proven wrong as I would rather have both sets of my speakers play well.

I also think that trying to discount actual users expriences as spurious by comparing them to what was reported in a magazine years ago using a different set of speakers isn't the last word when discussing what is happening today.

I like Ohm speakers. The engineering genius of Lincoln Walsh is appreciated. When actual users report on the possible failings of the Ohm manufacturing company, I think it is important to talk about it. Ohm makes a profit constructing speakers; they need to hear (are you listening JS?) what is going on with their product and how their customers are reacting.

t8 you would know best. . I would expect the two to have differences in sound to go along with the different driver size,  cabs and age. That’s about it.    If gen two rather than gen one then that is a step in teh right direction IMHO.

Finally some action on the thread...lol

I think the big surprises for everyone is the Walsh driver falling of so early.
The opportunity for me to take a closer look at each driver is pretty much
exclusive in the whole scheme of things IE no one else has done it as far as I have seen 
around the net. The extension of the tweeter is weird, looks like a filter blocking the signal.
I am ordering up a new cable for my signal generator to see if that's an issue.

I did take the switch circuit out yesterday and I'm going back to work on it momentarily.
Im sure cleaning up the wiring mess and removing the switches will greatly improve imaging and dynamic response. One odd thing is that the signal is inverted right at the signal input
so I will test that out....

Till then.......🇸🇪

Soooooo.....

The thought I had was, what would happen if I bypass the Ohm X-over and insert my own
that I built for another project.
The X-over is a simple 8 ohm (wrong impedance) cheap parts that I used for testing
and voila' my friends!! It worked like a charm, not perfect as It need to be a 4 ohm impedance unit, but never the less it works.
I'm surprised every day and It's a blast, can't wait to continue with some more testing.

More to come soon my friends....🇸🇪