Class D is just Dandy!


I thought it was time we had a pro- Class D thread. There's plenty of threads about comparisons, or detractors of Class D.

That's fine, you don't have to like Class D amps, and if you don't please go participate on one of those threads.

For those of us who are very happy and excited about having musical, capable amps that we can afford to keep on 24/7 and don't require large spaces to put them in, this thread is for you.

Please share your experiences with class D amps!
erik_squires
@toddverrone, You may be confusing 'Active' bi-amping with bi-amping. 

Bi-Amp - 2 amps wired to the speakers LF and MF/HF binding posts using the internal passive crossover.

Active Bi-Amp - Putting an active crossover in between the amps and the preamp. In this case, it's highly recommended to remove the crossover in the speaker and wire the drivers directly to the binding posts. This adds a level of complexity you may or may not like because you have to know crossover point of the MF/HF and LF drivers. 

Fortunately, my VT-80 outputs equal watts in 4 and 8 ohms load with 26dB gain which made it bit easy to coordinate. I tried few Class D amps that had very high damping factor or high gain settings (obviously they didn't quite gel as they over-powered the tube amp). While it's only been couple of days with THOR mono's in my system, I am throughly enjoying their more than adequate bass slam. In my system, the key was to attain just the right amount of low end without overwhelming the mid's and high's. So far I have not notice any coherence or speed mis-match issues.  

PS: I am glad to hear that you're enjoying your setup. 
In the professional world, "bi-amping" a single speaker system is always active, meaning it uses an active crossover before the amps.  Multi-way active speakers also use this type of crossover.

Only in the consumer world is there a question of whether or not to use a crossover when bi-amping, hence the confusion.

Far too many types of crossovers further confuse this, because while most line-level crossovers are "active" or powered, a rare few are passive.

Best,

E
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I received my ATI Class D 3-channel amp. Right out the box it's a definite improvement over the Marantz SR5011 and Marantz MM7055 I had. I'm using it to drive my center and rear channel. The power and clarity is just what I wanted. Now if I could figure out how to reduce the white noise between my Marantz AV 7702 and Corus preamp when in HT bypass. I thought I had it reduced with a power cord with the SR5011, but with the current 7702 it's bad. I'll start a new post or revive my old post.