Phono (0.1- 0.22mV+) or step up for LOMC?
Would you buy a phono (0.1- 0.22mV+) or step up for LOMC? Which one? Why? It's an Ikeda 9TT (2ohm, 0.2mV) with a VPI Classic, and Dynaudio BM5 MKiii monitors with volume box.
I have found the following options in the past few days. Phono:
Gold Note PH-10 (0.1mV)
Gold Note PH-1 (0.15mV)
Gold Note PH-7 (0.15mV)
EAR 834p (0.22mV)
Nighthawk F117 (???mV)
Which one would you choose?
I am leaning towards the PH10, but honestly I dont need all those settings, but if IT sounds superior than the other then I would go for it. The Nighthawk sounds really good also for the price but I couldn't find the specifications and I am not sure if it's good as any of the Gold Notes. Used EAR 834p can be an option also but I read really mixed opinions about it.
Now what I have now is a Musical Fidelity MX VYNL (0.4mV if its balanced), now I am running unbalanced. It's biggest advantage is I could run it full balanced all the way from the tonearm to the monitors and maybe some factory upgrade is possible, regarding to the website in the gain and plus a PSU.
Or step up?
Ortofon?
Denon?
It must be Max 1000pounds used.
Thank you all :)
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- 46 posts total
The EAR uses tubes for MM and step up transformers (SUT) internally for MC. The GNs use solid state which might be the way to go if you are good with no tubes. Dunno what MC you intend running but at this price level, you might be best served using a MM and skipping the additional lossy/potentially noisy MC stage. |
The KAB calculator is your friend. In my experience, unless you are using a passive preamp or have a pretty unusual system in terms of extremely high efficiency/low efficiency speakers, or very low powered tube amplification, the KAB calculator should give you an almost exact read of proper gain as it relates to output of the cartridge. In the price range of phono stages that you are considering noise issues should be minimal or non-existent if gain is matched properly to the output of the cartridge. In addition to that, you should be achieving the best possible sound with proper gain matching. It is very important. Use the output section of the calculator to establish the correct gain level for your cartridge and the sensitivity section below that to input the sensitivity of the phono stage to establish how much gain it is providing on the MC input. http://kabusa.com/frameset.htm?/ If you want to go the step up route you're going to need an extra set of IC's and you're going to have to do further/a different set of calculations. It would not be my first choice but it's a subjective hobby. My preference is for a versatile phono stage that offers flexible gain options to suit a range of cartridges. |
I have been very happy with my ph10 so far. Very versatile and you may find all the settings useful at some stage, I certainly have. I have used it with a shelter501 mk3 cart at 0.5mv and now with a ZYX rs30 at 0.24mv. This really needed very little change in setup, I increased gain from -3db to 0db and loading at 470ohm. This gave me my best sq to my ears. Obviously the more gain you run the more chance you risk of distortion or excess hiss/noise at the speakers without music playing. I did a test changing to +6db just to see and I think I could live with the hiss if I needed to. But I think even a very lomc in the 0.12mv area should only need +3db gain at most. But your results could differ considerably in your system. |
Make sure to the JLTi phono stage from Australia. This is the reincarnation of the legendary phono stage designed by Allen Wright back in the days. You're a victim of reviews, but do not trust reviews that much. Forget about optional RIAA curves, nobody use them, just standard RIAA. For about $750 the JLTi is amazing, the older version was much more expensive because of the luxury box, the newer version is cheaper because the cbinet is cheap looking, but for us it is more important to look what's inside. Should not be a problem to run 0.20mV cartridges, but for 0.05mV (like my Ortofon MC2000) i would not use any cheap phono stages! Anyway you can add any SUT later on with JLTi if you need more gain. What you need for a SUT is a decent MM phono stage. The JLTi is superb for MM with all that optional RCA plug load resistors (on the backside). |
My advice is consistent with chakster's but based on different arguments. I own two pretty expensive phono-pres: Basis Exclusive and Klyne 7PX3,5. Both have different amplification stages with intention to use the lowest possible with the given cartridge. The reason is : ''the higher the amplification the higher distortions''. The max amplification (3th stage) by Klyne is 67dB by Basis 70. The most of my MC's are low output, low impedance kinds. As chakster a.o. I also own Ortofon MC 2000 with 0.05 mV output. But this is not a criterion. Your own of 0,1 -0.22 is better. It is obvious that for such values you will need an pretty expensive (MC) phono-pre. If the money is the problem as is usually the case a SUT is better solution than ''cheap phono-pre''. I use Denon AU-S1 in combo with my Klyne for low output carts. This means that even an expensive pre like Klyne is not warranty for sufficient amplification. |
- 46 posts total