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Dealing with a power amp that need 20A connection

I just bought a used Audio Research power amp without knowing it needs 20A connection.
When I received the amp, there was no power cable included, and I've found out that the amp has a connection that I've never seen before. I thought it might be for 250 Volt, but later found out that this amp needs a special power cable with C19 type female connector and it has to be 12 AWG and 20A.
So, I ordered a 20A 12AWG power cable and a PS Audio power receptacle that supports 20A male connector type.
After reading a few more articles on 20A power amp, I may also need a 20A circuit breaker. The problem is, the circuit breaker for the audio room is 15A. Does it mean that I need a new breaker with 20A to use the amp?
What a hassle.
The seller did not mention anything about the cable power requirement and I assumed that it was included, but the seller didn't seem to have known anything about this amp. 
So, installing a new circuit breaker is something non tech people can do? If not, how much would I need to spend for professional job?
Would it be just OK to use 15A circuit breaker for the amp as long as I use 20A 12AWG power code and don't turn the volume much high?
Thx advance for your input.
128x128ihcho
ihcho's avatar
ihcho OP
609 posts
 
I also have read that statement: 
For the very best performance on domestic 100 or 120 volt circuits the 150M should be connected to its own AC power circuit branch protected by a 20 amp breaker.

That's why I thought about having a dedicated 20A circuit for this amp.
However, so far it seems to be fine with 10awg 15A power cord.  
gdnrbob
4,417 posts
 
As I said before, doing it the 'right' way would be the safest course, and probably give you a better outcome overall, but, I think running it with an adapter is fine as long as you don't push it.
Even if you do, the breaker should kick in, and then you'll know how far you can go.
B
builder3
752 posts
 
Jim, I'm curious to hear your thoughts on pig-tailed vs. daisy-chained wiring of outlets, if you have the time. Not necessarily per audio requirements, but in general.
TIA
jea48
4,313 posts
 
builder3124 posts12-26-2018 10:30am

Jim, I’m curious to hear your thoughts on pig-tailed vs. daisy-chained wiring of outlets, if you have the time. Not necessarily per audio requirements, but in general.
TIA
@builder3 If the joints and pigtail are made-up using an electrical spring wire connectors then pigtail is my choice over using the outlet to make the feed through connections.
An electrical spring connector will expand and contract with the heating and cooling of the wire connection always keeping the connection tight.

Examples of:
3M

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Electrical-Spring-Connector-412-BAG-Tan-...

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/41497O/3m-scotchlok-y-yellow-insulated-electrical-spring-connecto...

https://www.egr.msu.edu/eceshop/Parts_Inventory/datasheets/insulated%20electrical%20spring%20wire%20...

Ideal Twister®

WIRE CONNECTORS

(Tan)

http://www.wire-connectors.com/twister-wire-connectors.html
.

Second choice would be twisting the solid conductors together then solder and tape the joint. This use to be the method of choice for residential house wiremen in my area.

builder3
752 posts
 
Jim, that looks great. When I built my shop, I used the pig-tail method on every outlet in the place, workshop, garage, and upstairs office. My thinking was that if I had an issue with an outlet, I wanted it confined to the one device, rather than everything downstream of the failure. I had an electrician or two suggest that I had went to a lot of extra work for nothing. I was still good with my choice, but was curious what was behind your comments. Thanks.
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