Easy to drive, outstandingly natural sound from 40-50 Hz up.....AN-E, O/96, others?


If my goal were to find natural-sounding, dynamic, and efficient speakers that can be driven with a somewhat lower-powered a (i.e., 50-watt SS) amplifier, and that work well with a variety of music, would I be looking at AN-Es, O/96s, or which others?
I am not particularly interested in using a 10-20 watt SET, but being able to use something lower-powered than the 300-watt amplifiers required for my 85dB speakers would open up a lot of other amplifier options and simplify things for me.  I have two fairly high-quality powered subs so the goal would be to fill my (moderately large) room from 40-50 Hz and up and let the subs handle the lower registers.
Any thoughts on the two speakers listed, or recommendations for others?
mitch2
mitch2,

I actually do use a high-pass filter between the preamp and the main amp. The main speakers are now down 3dB at 60Hz (9dB at 30Hz etc.). The device is passive and uses a small Audio Note UK capacitor.  This takes a lot of strain off the main amplifier. 60Hz and below is largely covered by the subwoofer system.
@exlibris 
Where did you find a good-sounding high pass filter made with high quality components, or did you make one yourself.
I have looked at Vandersteen's M7-HP, which is made for their Model 7 series speakers and appears to be well-constructed, but it costs $2K/pair and rolls off from 100 Hz, which is higher than I want.
https://www.vandersteen.com/categories/crossovers
I had it made by my local technician. I was skeptical that it would sound good but it really worked out great.

Exlibris wrote: "The reason I’m interested in making a change is not because adding subs threw off the balance, it’s because I find the speakers to be a bit "sleepy."

You might try a rear-firing tweeter to add a little bit more top-end energy to the reverberant field. This could theoretically "wake up" the tonal balance a bit WITHOUT screwing up the first-arrival sound and therefore the imaging.

The tweeter could actually sit on the floor behind the Audio Notes, facing upwards. You want to be sure the path lengths from the rear tweeters to your ears are at least a foot longer than the path lengths from the main tweeters to your ears, or else they could screw up the imaging. Probably just a first order crossover (series capacitor and maybe a level-adjusting series resistor),with the calculated F3 being fairly high. To avoid dropping the impedance curve very much, I suggest starting out with a high efficiency tweeter so that you need to add some series resistance to pad it down. Fostex comes to mind.

I'm sure there would be some trial-and-error involved in sorting out the component value(s) for the highpass filter, but ten or fifteen bucks worth of basic capacitors and resistors would get you started, and then you could opt for the more expensive parts once you have the values sorted out. 

Duke