2. analog
  3. 152095-18254

US source of Panzerholtz?

Wanting to purchase enough for a couple plinths... one for my Technics SP10 MK3 and the other to finish a Lenco PTP project.

Thanks,

Rick
128x128Ag insider logo xs@2xrich121
terry9
2,354 posts
 
I used panzerholz B25 for my DIY TT plinth. Agreed, hard to work with, gummy (the glue) and hard (beech veneer). I did most of the cutting with a jig-saw (German blades) and file, and a diamond hole saw. Takes a good finish.

The thing is, it's acoustically dead, and it epoxies up very nicely, which is important for constrained layer damping. Which Delrin does not (epoxy nicely).

One of the very best go to materials, IMO. Worth the price? Depends on how you value your design time.
coffee-jerk
74 posts
 
How is Paperstone for this application?   It seems to use a similar production process, and it's made in the midwest.   Also goes by the name of Richlite.   It's not cheap, though.   Available in several thicknesses.

bdp24's avatar
bdp24
9,938 posts
 

Fantastic discussion and information, particularly in the @phoenixengr link. Gotta get some me Corian! Bill, do you think slate is approximately the same as granite in terms of stiffness, resonance, self-damped characteristics, etc? I like the look of slate better than that of granite---slate looks like Hot Rod Black paint jobs ;-) .

In addition to the 3M tape mentioned in the linked diyaudio forum thread, ASC makes a constrained layer damping product they named Wall Damp. It was designed to be installed between two layers of sheet rock, and I have heard the results when that has been done (in Audiogon member folkfreak’s room). Very, very effective.

I talked to ASC about using Wall Damp between a layer of relatively-stiff material (I named slate or granite) and Baltic Birch ply, and he said it is more effective when both layers are less stiff. He said constrained layer damping products work by absorbing vibration and converting it into heat. The less a material vibrates, the less effective is CLD. MDF is far less stiff than 13-ply Baltic Birch, so I assume it is the better choice for mating with Corian or Panzerholz.

mijostyn's avatar
mijostyn
8,570 posts
 
bdp24, Corian is very difficult to get if you are not a licensed installer but there are other brands available that are essentially the same stuff. Corian will actually stain over time and is not as hard as Quartz solid surface material which will never stain. I made my sub woofers out of Corian layered with glass microspheres in epoxy (System 1). Layered with MDF as Phoenix did should work well also. If you edge the MDF with a hardwood like walnut you can get nice cosmetic results. Quartz is harder and heavier than Panzerholtz but more brittle. You can not use only a hardwood for the middle layer as it will expand and contract with humidity and in time the whole assembly will fall apart. I have also made dipole speakers this way with excellent results. Quartz really requires diamond tooling, Corion will cut and shape with carbide.
phoenixengr's avatar
phoenixengr
94 posts
 
@bdp24-
I don't know the properties for slate vs granite;  look on-line for the parameters or get some pieces and test it.  The links I provided on the DIY site to Bryan's blog pages might have some insight as well.
More to discover