Defy audiophile orthodoxy and get the Schiit Loki EQ for a mere $150, and then crank the bass up as much as you want. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6oyxHGJbsM Or get a sub or two (or four, according to knowledgeable people on this forum).
Should I be able to hear a 4Hz difference in my speakers?
I have just upgraded from a Totem Hawk speaker to a Forest Signature speaker. The Hawk's specs are 32Hz - 21kHz. They have a 5.5 " long throw driver.
The Forests specs are 28Hz - 22kHz with a 6.5" woofer. The Forests are physically bigger too.
I can hear the treble more clearly and more detail with the Forests but no more bass than with the Hawks. Should I be able to hear more bass with the Forests or is the difference in specs inaudible?
The Forests specs are 28Hz - 22kHz with a 6.5" woofer. The Forests are physically bigger too.
I can hear the treble more clearly and more detail with the Forests but no more bass than with the Hawks. Should I be able to hear more bass with the Forests or is the difference in specs inaudible?
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you can compare the speakers by input low frequency sine wave . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRQ9qfxStg0 |
First of all, comparing the low frequency response specs of two loudspeakers provided by their makers, and thinking that the one whose specified response extends 4Hz lower than the other will do just that, is to buy into unproven marketing claims. Another point to consider is that, as @wolf_garcia stated, even if those specs are correct, they are so only when the standard "room gain" figures are added to the anechoic measurements, and only at a SPL level far below that of the midrange (1kHz is the industry standard measuring frequency) coming from the same driver: remember to look for the + and - qualifiers next to the frequency numbers. Those low-frequency numbers, if true, are at a SPL level far below that of 1kHz. 28Hz, or even "just" 32Hz, from a 5.5" or 6.5" driver? Not at anything above a whisper. As an aside, when did a 5.5" driver (or even 6.5") become considered a woofer?! 5" was for years the size of most midrange drivers, with a 10", 12", or 15" woofer below for bass. A loudspeaker with a 5.5" (or even 6.5") "woofer" requires a sub (or at least a larger driver) to reach down to 32 or 28Hz at anything approaching realistic SPL. Richard Vandersteen didn’t design and market a sub just to have another model to sell! I think a lot of Pop music listeners could happily live with a loudspeaker that cleanly reproduces 41Hz (the lowest tone produced by the 4-string bass, electric or acoustic) at lifelike SPL. The truth is, few can, no matter the claim. John Atkinson's measurements routinely reveal that fact. |
I used to own all Totem speakers for all my different rooms. The difference between the Forest and the Hawks were mainly In the lower frequency range, Forest produced a more full sound. But with every Totem speaker I had except for the Arros, you needed a powerful amp. To get the best sound from my Mani II’s, I used the 1000 watt McIntosh monoblocks. For the Model 1’s, I used a 250 watt Classe amp. For both the Forest or Hawks, I would go with at least an equivalent 250 watt Amp like from Classe, Pass, McIntosh, and the Odyssey monoblocks. I had used all of those amps with Totem speakers with good results. I had the McIntosh ma6500 integrated for a while and it didn’t provide the power that either the Mani’s or model 1’s needed, that’s when I switched to monoblocks and separates. Speaker positioning is also important in your room. Totem makes a really good speaker that produces full range sound from a smaller speaker. |
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