How to remove ground pin on power cable

millercarbon:

There always comes a point in every discussion of electricity where the common sense ends and Nervous Nancy and the Technobabbler’s take over. This is it. The end of the common sense. And now, without further ado, performing twenty five shows a day for endless nights only, our encore presentation of Nervous Nancy and the Technobabblers!

That's some kwisatz haderach level presience there, fellas.

Which like I said, ignorance and irrational fear abounds. Now you know we have two grounds, the utility ground everything has plus the redundant earth ground they made us add.

Like most everything, mc is ignorant on electrical wiring. There is one ground and that is the utility neutral. The Earth safety [ground rod, Ufer, copper pipe] is connected to it in the event lightning hits the electrical service. The Earth safety takes the current to earth, not the neutral.

The Earth safety on equipment is to prevent the chassis becoming live in the event of accident or failure.

Nervous Nanny:

1. remove safety ground pin
2. slide heavy amp w captive cord into rack
3. pinch cable between amp and rack, cut through insulation to hot lead
4. drop amp
5. cut off toe

I see SatTV and Cable 'grounded' to hose bibs on houses plumbed with PEX.

Like most everything, mc is ignorant on electrical wiring.

+1. Or as Mark Twain famously said, “What gets us into trouble is not what we don't know. It's what we know for sure that just ain't so.”

Best regards,
-- Al
 

Erik, thanks. Your last post is generally in line with my observations. (I’m a builder, been 31 years). Everything gets dedicated ground rods now. No waterpipes, no Ufers cast in the foundation, etc. It’s not that a buried line wouldn’t normally be sufficient, it’s that there’s too much potential for it to become rendered ineffective though ongoing plumbing modernization and repairs. It’s happening at my house currently, nearly 70 year old water line feeding the home, big section of it is going away, replaced with PEX.
Jim, thanks as well. I’ve read your answer about six times. I understand what it says (pretty sure), but don’t understand why. Can you offer an explanation. At anywhere beyond the most remedial, I don’t comprehend the interaction of the neutral and the ground, when they’re bonded, when they’re not, etc. I realize this may be a tall order, if so, just say so.
Thanks

miller, as much as I appreciate 99% of your posts, I’m not sure how you defend your position on this. It’s simple. The ground is the only safeguard in the event that any metal item becomes energized due to an equipment defect or failure.
Our house was built in 1952. I can't tell you what the code requirements may have been then. Jim may know. Everything was wired with two-conductor cables, forerunner of romex, I guess. All the boxes, etc, were metal, and they all were connected with a dedicated ground wire, one to the other. I’ve yet to find a fault in any of it, I’ve probably modernized 30% of the home, at this point. There wasn’t a three prong outlet anywhere, (not sure if they existed at the time) so you’re on your own with the toaster, etc, but every box, switch, plug, etc, was grounded. Somebody knew it was important then. It still is.
L.