100W, 200W, or 300W?


I'm pretty new to this and could use some help. Working down my list of upgrades: did speakers, room treatment on order... I think next up is to replace my amp.

I'm currently using a Harman Kardon PA2000 stereo amp that I had sitting in storage. 100 WPC @ 8 Ohm. It's "OK", but it probably the weak point in my system right now.

For speakers, I picked up B&W 805D3 tabletops with stands.

88 dbSPL sensitivity, 8 ohm. They recommend 50-120W @ Ohm for the amp power on their site.

I pulled up an amplifier calculator and plugged in some numbers:

88 sBSPL, 8 ft distance, 85 dB volume w 15 dB headroom and this came out to 3W RMS w 94W peak

I have my heart set on blue watt meters so I see the following options:

1) MA5300 @ 100 WPC, no autoformers, integrated
2) MA7200 @ 200 WPC, has autoformers, integrated
3) MC302 @ 300 WPC, has autorormers, seperates


For the MA5300, I'm concerned that there isn't enough headroom. If I even get close to the 94W peak, it means that I'm pushing the amp to the max, so I'd probably be operating in an area of reduced sonic performance since it's being stressed. Is this a correct assumption?

The MA7200 looks like it'll leave plenty of headroom and it also has (for better or worse) autoformers which seems to be what puts the "mac sound" in macs.

The MC302 is just sexy as heck... but is there any realistic gain with my current set up that I would get by buying one of these? Or is it so much overkill that I am just throwing money away at this point?
eisenb11
I just looked at the MA5300, I think you are making a wise choice. I don’t know anything about digital beyond CD’s, so I have no idea what it doesn’t have, but the MA352 appealed to me when I saw it’s a tube/ss hybrid, remote control, still has blue meters for you, additional power, (for the future, I agree with you, 100 watts are enough)

I don’t know the price of either one. Buy a used one? McIntosh comes with 3 year warranty, is it transferable? In any case, they are essentially bullet proof, so if you find a good deal on one you can return, or, one you can buy an extended warranty, i.e. square trade, I would go for that.

You didn’t mention, but both of these have MM Phono Input, you will get there some day!

I didn’t see a remote control for MA5300 (many OEM’s forget to show or mention them), MA352 has one, I would want remote volume, and remote balance to improve imaging of CD’s and LP’s, some of which are not quite spot on. A very slight balance adjustment can make a surprising difference.

My office, I went Vintage: some nice 2 way bookshelf speakers from B&W, and a self powered Velodyne sub, a Carver Cube Amp, Reel to Reel, TT, and my computer sound for YouTube, Pandora, CD, DVD, ... Monitor dead center, wonderful imaging, audio or audio/video. I control inputs, volume, balance via my Chase Remote Line Controller, RLC-1, I would never live without one, that solves any amp/preamp with no remote control.

and have set myself up with a perfect equilateral triangle listening spot, wow, terrific. I had to rebuild my office bookcases and desk to make that happen, so glad I did.

Adjustable Crossover, external or built in the sub like mine is, removes low bass before the bookshelf speakers, so they don’t try to make bass they cannot do without distortion and poor volume levels. That helps them shine. Sub just to add a bit, not too much, not aware of it unless I turn it off. Same thing with the sub in the home theater, primarily there for Jurassic Park Dinosaur Stomp.
Digging through the Mac specs it appears that their own direct coupled design has 5 times the damping factor of the autoformer design. While it seems debatable if damping factor beyond 250 has real-world gain, these values seem to be within the “it might matter” range since they’re within the 0-250 range.
@eisenb11 It might interest you to know that no speaker made needs more than 20:1 damping factor and many sound better with less! So more damping factor, if that is the only metric, totally does not matter. Damping factor looks better on paper than it sounds in real life- again, given that such is the only metric. Distortion is far more important, both the distortion that an amp makes and also that which it does not. In general with most amps these days higher distortion is often a sign of lower ordered harmonics to which the ear is relatively insensitive. OTHO very low distortion might only be higher ordered harmonics and the ear is keenly sensitive to those and interprets them as brightness and harshness.

@eisenb11

I recently purchase Sonus Faber Sonetto Vs.  I really like them and they are a significant upgrade from my Sonus Faber Venere 3.0s
Hi all, latest update:

The amp I ended up buying was... none on my list! I bought a McIntosh MC152. 150W/Ch w 2 dB headroom so no power concerns and also has the autoformers. Nice and laid back, seems to have tamed my tweeters a bit. Only had a chance to play around with them a couple of hours. Those meters are really fun to watch - better than staring at the wall while the song is playing.

Wasn’t in a big hurry to pick something, but a deal dropped in my lap that was way too good to pass up.
Congrats!  And buying something not on the list sounds like you were able to identify additional options.

The meters are a bit like fire - hypnotic!