Spikes or rubber feet.
I use these under my spiked speaker stands & audio rack on hardwood floors, they work great. https://herbiesaudiolab.com/collections/loudspeaker-rack-decoupling-and-isolation/products/cone-spike-decoupling-glider |
Nice line of speakers, and the OEM evaluated them with both the hard rubber or spikes, provided both in case you wanted to try spikes. My speakers are very heavy, close to 200 lbs I bet. I’ve done hard but ’slidable’ bottom pads, felt, adjustable spikes with the dimple disk on wood floor, and now 3 wheels. Theory is one thing, perceivable results another, no one could hear a preference, so I go for 3 wheels to provide mobility (more weight per wheel than 4, and 3 never wobble) (some minor compression tracks in the wood floor) Back in corners when expanding the dining table for family holidays. Or out of the way for access to components. Hard to get em moving, but move they do. Grid wood floor, easy repositioning. I think pick your evaluation music, a good listen as is, then try spikes, IOW, like me, and my friends, you need to know the answer. My guess, no difference, back to easier hard rubber. I sometimes alter the amount of toe-in, my friend with spikes, it’s a monumental effort to try a different angle. Your speakers, being towers, you need 4 pads, spikes, wheels, so it is imperative the spikes are adjustable or you have sturdy shims, lack of proper weight transfer on 4 spikes can defeat the idea of super stability. |
btw, I put tower speakers that could easily tip over if only 3 spikes (or my current 3 wheels). Trick is, put blocks in both rear corners, just a bit of clearance so the rear spike/wheel only is supporting the speaker. Then, for any reason (fat parrot gets out of the cage, perches on a rear corner) if it starts to tip, the wood block prevents it from going over. Rear spike height fixed, adjust two front spikes for level/straight appearance |
