More power for moderate listening levels?

If you have never inserted a high power amp into your system, now is the time to try it out. Beg, borrow, or steal a big amp and give it a try. 

That sounds like a recommendation to change speakers to your fav.

As opposed to choosing what is bad, I guess. Like tuberculosis.

Again, it's a matter preference. I'm hoping the higher power amp (15W Class A before switching) shares some of the sonic character of the current amp. Chalk and cheese or cheddar and brie. I think I will try. 

If you go about it bassackwards as Chucky says you’re in for trouble.

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A laugh a minute.. If you know your equipment you buy accordingly..
MC knows his equipment..  Low watt amps 1st and second order XOs and well matched drivers with HIGH E factors, are a match made in heaven. Pass and Tekton are just that..

Power amps are rated by class. Class A, AB, and D are probably the most common.  There are valve amps that are pure class A, AB the same as SS but class Ds I seen hybrids of tube front ends and class d power amps..

Class A Amps run wide open, as you increase the power they actually cool down, AB is both usually, A up to a bias point and then AB from that point on.. Then it will create more heat....than the actual set class a bias point.. I'm sure someone will chime in all tec like.. LOL Me I'm just al ol mechanic...BUT that is the just of it...

So you could feed the world on circumcision soup, too, YUM ME!!

Get along now, come back for a second bowl of soup., any volunteers?

Regards.. 

I got tired reading the answers; some may have been correct(I apologize for being impatient). Having a "high current amp" is what you want. The dynamic range of the source, the type of music you're reproducing, will dictate how much "power" you really need. To properly reproduce the 1812 overture’s canon shot, you will need almost 800 watts per channel of high current power. It’s the dynamic range. Most of your listening, may require only a modest amount of power. It’s when the drummer hits those cymbals, kick drum, or something like this-that’s when you need that extra current, which transfers into wattage, or your amp will "clip", trying to reproduce that passage or note. Caveat-I love Class "A" bias amps. They’re always wide open just sitting there waiting for you to turn up the preamp. Think of it like a hot fuel dragster sitting at the line, waiting for the go light. It’s revved up to max RPM’s-then the clutch is let out!