Tube rolling with Quicksilver Mono 60s -- from KT77 to KT88? KT 120? etc.


Happy Turkey Day!  I have Quicksilver 60 Monos and I'm using Gold Lion KT77s. They sound great. The amp came with JJ KT88s and they were a bit bright/harsh. The GL 77s are better.

For variety's sake, I'm thinking of having another set to just try for variation. The monos can use KT77, KT90, KT88, KT120 or KT150 outputs.

I have heard the Gold Lion KT88s are great tubes, but I'd also be open to others (not more 77s, though).

Does anyone one have a sense of the kinds of sound changes might be brought by either KT90 or better KT88 or KT120 or KT150s?

If it matters, I'm using a QS Line stage and stand mount speakers, 8 ohm 87 db.

One thing I'm looking for (possibly) is a somewhat tighter bass, but I'd be open to hearing what other sonic changes might result from other tubes.

Thanks.

128x128hilde45
WOW serious valves there. It may be GL time if those can't take the nasties out.. The JJ you have in the Powerposition were broke in?

If they were.  You had the good signal valves when you had the JJ in?

Look into that 12BH7, Even an EH, or GL swap there (that valve needs attention) might really mellow the JJs out.., But JJ is JJ (Yuk LOL)

The other "ONE", I would try is a good Tellie, NOS (you know the drill)

OK, one more thing, let the rolles settle a bit.. 20-50hours, ay.. They can be a little wonkie for a bit..

Other than that, YOUR GL choice is good, IMO

Enjoy..
@hilde45, your small input/driver tubes from Brent J are fine may I suggest. I’d recommend you leave those for now and rotate the power tubes (in your specific case). The original stock KT88s were just okay, as aI recall. The KT77s you have now are giving that magical midrange and smooth highs with a little less drive on the low end. It’s a give/take situation. Really good KT88s are the safest bet in your Mono 60 amps. Upgrades to the small triode input/driver tubes is good (as already suggested, and you’ve already done that) with reputable tube provider.

And, of course, KT120 / KT150 is an option, and while the Mono 60s will accept them, may not be totally recommended in your amps. If you do go that route with 120/150s - the sound will tip away into different directions some. The KT120s are like a big KT88s, and they were a bit dry and less full sounding in my QS Mono 120s with the stock coupling caps. I jumped to the KT150s with a whole new sound top to bottom. More air on top, more bottom end punch and a yet very neutral midrange and not so forward or focused midrange like a good old EL34 has. Sound stage set back a little with KT150s in MY QS 120 amps. Reminder, the QS 120 amps were designed to run KT150s, and I cannot run KT88s, it will burn them up, not backward compatible. Yours will run them, why? TIP: I’d suggest NOT going with KT120s or KT150s in your Mono 60s, reason being is the Mono 120s were upgraded again with even larger transformers to get the most out of the higher $ KT150 tubes. 150s or the future KT170s are 15w more per tube, not ideal for your amps. Waste of $ IMO, for your amps. Can’t drive them properly.

The transformers and amp circuit itself has a lot to do with it, and each tube will sound different in different amplifiers/circuits. Yours, for KT88s.

Try not to judge how your amp sounded with the lower grade stock KT88s they came with new. There are much better KT88s out there than what you started with. Same as others, recommend you try really good KT88s. Some are having good luck with the Shuguang Black Treasure KT88s, or Gray Glass PSVANE KT88s, and of course new re-issue GL KT88s.   For reference, we removed KT150s from my friends older Jolida integrated amp (had smaller transformers, lower plate voltage.  It was not designed for KT150s. We installed a tested and well matched quad of PSVANE Gray glass KT88s with quite amazing success. Sounded like a completely different amplifier with really good KT88s. He’s had them over a year now. The did open up after 100hrs. Time will tell.  

And, if you win the lottery, try some ultra expensive EAT KT88s. Really good KT88s can make a difference too :)
Thanks, Table jockey. I'll keep that in mind.

Thanks, oldhvy. I got good advice from decooney and Brent Jessee. The JJ in power position were broken in.

Yes, I did have the good signal valves in with the JJ.

And remember--I don't have JJ's in now. I have GL KT77's in powerposition.

I suppose I'm not trying to eliminate nasties as experience some other possibilities. Let's call it "Kama Sutra, tube-style."

So, perhaps a GL KT88 is a good way to play.

Spot on I think after clearing up some things in my head. You seem to have it well in hand.. Sometimes you,re just right.. LOL

If BASS wasn’t mentioned, I would say, stay right where you're at..
BUT YOU DID.... Bigger :-) I love EL34 valves when they're not doing bass duty, plane and simple.. I use them everyday.

30 + years I quit using valves for bass duty.. I could never get the distortion near as low as SS. 15-20% was was the best I could do.. Sounded good, BUT SS sure tightened it up.. 5 - 10% MAX.. with the right drivers.

Have fun, and good source for your valves too. That outfit actually cares and VERY knowledgeable, too. I’ve worked with them 4 or 5 times looking for some rare valves, in restorations of mine..

Regards
@decooney
My friend has the QS 120 amps and he has used KT88 tubes with those amps. It states this in the QS M120 manual!
Mono 120 for web (quicksilveraudio.com)