Tube Amp lower power vs higher power and cruising volume


After having Solid State my entire life thus far, I bought a PrimaLuna EVO 300 integrated and absolutely love it. I am currently driving 20 year old B&W CDM9NT's and it does a wonderful job, I never heard my B&W's have that much bass before, even at lower listening volumes. The EVO 300 is rated at 42W. Since I recently purchased it I have the option for a brief time without losing money to possibly move up to the EVO 400 integrated which adds 4 more output tubes and gives you 70W. I believe the 300 and 400 both use the same transformer because they both weigh the same 68 lbs. So my only reason for possibly doing this would be for future speaker upgradability having a little more power. I know my B&W's are not the most efficient and the 300 seems to be driving them very well, volume rarely goes past 9:30/10. So my question, if I get a higher power model, since I listen most of the time at comfortable listening levels, with a higher power tube amp will you have to turn it up higher to hit that cruising speed where it starts to open up? The 300 seems to hit that early and I listen at comfortable levels and good extended bass without having to crank it which is nice when I am listening at night and my wife and daughter are sleeping. Overall I am very happy with the 300 but while I have the option I am trying to decide if the extra for a 400 is worth it. Thanks
128x128jmphotography
If you are contemplating a future speaker upgrade, sensitivity is where it's at. 
You have more than enough power for any efficient speakers.
Sometimes it’s best to leave well enough alone and enjoy the music. I’m guilty of upgraditis when my system sounds sublime. I’m starting to just listen to the music now. I’d wait on any upgrade. You will know when it’s time. 
yes as said below, the position of the volume knob is a red herring w.r.t. amp power ... it really doesn’t have much to do with when the amp will start to exhaust its power reserves and start to clip - input sensitivity and gain of the input tubes account for that rotary position as much as speaker sensitivity

i agree with what others have stated... stick w what you have... i think the 2 tubes per channel models would if anything, sound a touch cleaner than the 4 tube/channel models... that has been my experience with audio research amps... a minute very subtle difference that can become significant as tubes age and matched sets grow apart - the pl amps have auto bias so this may be somewhat minimized but it is still a consideration

my experience with my hp amp is that rolling the two middle 12au7’s can alter the sound character a good bit, as well as, of course, the power tubes ... pl amps give the user a lot to do (triode / ul too) - fun amp to own


The great Robert Harley said, "If the first watt isn't any good why would you want 200 more of them?" Its not the amp that "opens up" its the speakers. Tube amp sound is mostly like Ralph said transformers and driver circuits. Its superficial repeating what they heard audiophiles who think its the tubes. More power is not the answer. Doesn't seem like you need it anyway. Only reason you mention for wanting more power is to enable buying even worse sensitivity harder to drive speakers in the future. Now why would you want to do that???! When you have a really sweet sounding amp, I would think the priority would be to buy speakers it can drive, and not the other way around. Problem solved.
@jmphotography 

Were the KT88's broken in? 

Can you try the 400 to see if what you hear is life changing or maybe a changeling?