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Dedicated Music Room Recessed Lighting (High Hats)?

The music room is down to studs.  Rewired the entire room and in the process added 7 high hats.  They were to be used to make the room very bright for cleaning, playing with wires etc.  I also have four sconces that will get the old style low wattage Edison bulbs for lighting during listening (as well as a lamp or two).  It did not occur to me that although the "cans" won't be used during music the "cans" may buzz. I've been told this by three audiophiles and a home theater guy.  Two emphatically tell me to "rip them out while you can".  Others have told me just go get the automotive sound deadening sheets (cut and stick on the cans). The room has been insulated with Roxul SAFB (Sound Absorbing Fire Barrier) in batt form 6" in the walls 9" in the ceiling. Does anyone have any experience with cans rattling or buzzing?
Should I rip them out?  Yes I do listen to music very loud at times. Thanks.
Regards, barts  
barts
cissado
113 posts
 
I've installed hundreds of recessed lights. The most vibration noise that would come out of them would be from the connection box where the cable comes into the box for termination. It was the cover plates of the boxes. Another location is the sliding bars that hold the fixture up in between the joists. Its a bit flimsy and can rattle at a certain frequency, I'm sure. 3rd is the socket that holds the bulb in place. Some are adjustable and can get loose if not securely fastened. 

I suggest, if you'reworried about it, , before finishing, fasten all those spots and then some, and you should be good. Some kind of super  tape or wire that won't get loose over time.

Good luck

PS 
Fwiw, my recessed lights don't rattle and I didn't do any if that stuff. I have an all in one flat  cover with led inside. 
cissado
113 posts
 
So, when installing a light that was next to another one, you could hear the vibrations as you were hammering of the light that was already installed. If you could tape them, fasten them, etc... and they would stop vibrating before the gypsum board, then you'll probably be fine  
barts's avatar
barts OP
764 posts
 
cissado, thanks for the suggestions much appreciated.  I will address all of those areas.  The sheetrock is going to be glued and screwed, so maybe some Green Glue on the supporting braces between the joists is a good way to go.  Along with taping and wire on the other locations. 
Regards,
barts

dekay's avatar
dekay
5,765 posts
 
Perhaps you could spot check the ceiling/walls/room by hooking up an inexpensive tactile transducer to an amp and sound source (they are $10-$20 @ Parts Express)?

A CD with sound sweeps, like the one by Ayre, should do the trick (along with a long run of lamp cord/speaker cable).

DeKay


oldhvymec
5,101 posts
 
OP, do something now, you sound like you want to. Just do it.. Get some high temp stick on stuff and seal the heck out of it.. Silicone is expensive, There is expanding fireproof, soundproofing foam. Tightens EVERYTHING up... Easy to apply.

Put that stuff ON and let it air a bit.

Tighten all the wires in the rafters too, a little dab will go a long ways for for rattling cables laying on rafters

No huffin the fumes OP, that's a no no!

Enjoy the new room... It won't be spooky for long. VERY quiet with no wall board up though, only insulation. It is spooky, no room bounce..

Regards
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