Dedicated power

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What's with this on the same phase advice, residential electric service only has one phase it's a split single phase.

In the US, residential electric service is 240VAC, which is achieved  using two 120VAC lines that are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. When someone suggests keeping equipment "on the same phase," they mean connected back to the service panel to the same 120VAC leg.

Even without considering any electrical pollution from lights, etc,  it will help.  When I wired the outlet for my system, I used a 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wirimg.  A second amp really made more difference, but a 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge wiring would have been too little.  Besides, remember: a circuit breaker trips with a continuous 75% load, 20 amp = 15 amp trip setting.  From its label,  add how many watts your amp(s) can draw.  This is the wattage used to fire it up.  If I turn on all four channels of my amps together (subs and mains) not counting preamps, tuners, CD, etc, the potential 3000 watt draw at 120 volts requires 25 amps, more than the continuous trip amperage of 22.5 amps for a 30 amp breaker.  Of course, the regulated power supply helps, but I certainly do not want a 20 breaker that trips at 15 amps, much less a 15 amp breaker that is only good for a continuous 11.25 amps, to be responsible for keeping my ears, and equipment, happy.   AND!  I only have amps rated at 125 wpc (250 @ 4, 400 @ 2 ohms) x4 for my six ohm speakers.

jea48, so you're essentially talking about wiring the circuit as 20A (breaker, outlet), but upsizing the wire to #10?  I'm just trying to learn a bit.Thanks

Two dedicated lines is the way to go. In my case high current tube SET amp benefited from it's own line. Everything else on other circuit with power conditioner, all digital equipment powered by linear power supplies. Switching power supplies inject noise.