Dedicated power


I'm looking to run a dedicated 30a and dedicated 20a line to my system directly from the fuse box. 
I currently have some florescent lights and some other junk on the line so I'm hoping it will be an improvement. Things sounds like they are straining somewhat when you crank things up. The amp will go on the 30a line and the digital stuff on the 20a. 
Anyone done this and saw improvements? 
mofojo
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Even without considering any electrical pollution from lights, etc,  it will help.  When I wired the outlet for my system, I used a 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wirimg.  A second amp really made more difference, but a 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge wiring would have been too little.  Besides, remember: a circuit breaker trips with a continuous 75% load, 20 amp = 15 amp trip setting.  From its label,  add how many watts your amp(s) can draw.  This is the wattage used to fire it up.  If I turn on all four channels of my amps together (subs and mains) not counting preamps, tuners, CD, etc, the potential 3000 watt draw at 120 volts requires 25 amps, more than the continuous trip amperage of 22.5 amps for a 30 amp breaker.  Of course, the regulated power supply helps, but I certainly do not want a 20 breaker that trips at 15 amps, much less a 15 amp breaker that is only good for a continuous 11.25 amps, to be responsible for keeping my ears, and equipment, happy.   AND!  I only have amps rated at 125 wpc (250 @ 4, 400 @ 2 ohms) x4 for my six ohm speakers.
jea48, so you're essentially talking about wiring the circuit as 20A (breaker, outlet), but upsizing the wire to #10?  I'm just trying to learn a bit.Thanks
Two dedicated lines is the way to go. In my case high current tube SET amp benefited from it's own line. Everything else on other circuit with power conditioner, all digital equipment powered by linear power supplies. Switching power supplies inject noise.
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